Pixelated Memories: Mughal Mosque

Showing posts with label Mughal Mosque. Show all posts

December 16, 2012

Qutb Complex, New Delhi

When the turbulent forces of Islam swept into the Indo-Gangetic plains at the end of the 12th century, its encounter with the flourishing Hinduism was that of non-alikes. The clash over-awed those who witnessed it, & left behind its markings – in stone – to surprise the coming generations with its might & scale. The man leading this clash, Muizzudin bin Sam, more popularly known as Muhammad, the Sultan of the kingdom of Ghur in modern Afghanistan, led an army into India with the mission of plundering the incredible wealth of the Indian kingdoms & to convert them into his fiefs. Having accomplished it in AD 1192 after defeating the army of Prithviraj Chauhan, he retired back to his kingdom, leaving his favorite slave, who was also the commander of his powerful army, Qutbuddin Aibak, in-charge of this newly conquered land. Holding sway over this land of a foreign religion, Qutbuddin decided to leave an imprint of his religion here. Being a fanatic Muslim, he ordered destruction of Hindu & Jain temples that already existed in the country & selected a site in the then capital “Dhillipura” (Delhi’s medieval name!!) where he would build his dream project - a massive mosque & an equally massive victory tower to display the might of his faith. The site of Qutbuddin’s choice coincided with the fortress of Lal Kot, the stronghold of the Tomar-Chauhan dynasty, the last Hindu rulers of Delhi & the clan to which Prithviraj belonged. Over time, successive rulers of Delhi took it upon themselves to complete, or expand, as might be the case, this project of Qutbuddin. & almost a millennia later, the ruins that remain of these structures fall into what is now known as the Qutb Complex, one of the World Heritage Sites located in the barren lands of Mehrauli, Delhi.

The Qutb Complex is perhaps one of those places that I have longed to visit for an incredible span of time – I am perhaps one of those rare Delhi inhabitants who had not seen the Qutb Complex till late in their lives (I am only 20 though, but its late considering that the complex is one of the first places parents/relatives take kids to in Delhi!! Sadly, my parents did not take me for a visit to Qutb, or any other monument/heritage structure for that matter, despite it being only one & a half hour drive away from my home). But not anymore, I visited the complex sometime back & to my utter surprise, it turned out to be a sheer delight!! More incredible than what the photographs show, & much larger & pristine than what the articles/blogs tell. I have always been fascinated with history & heritage, read a lot about the monuments & cities of India. Delhi, my home state, has been built several times, it always rises like a phoenix every time a new marauding army or some other catastrophe puts an end to one of its ruling dynasties/kingships. The forts & ruins of Mehrauli were one of the earliest cities of Delhi & have been inhabited ever since, thus making the region the longest continuously inhabited settlement in Delhi. I had read so much about the Qutb Complex & its neighboring monuments/ruins that I knew almost everything about these structures even before going there. But being there & standing under these majestic structures is an incredible experience in itself – the construction here is at such a gigantic scale that it takes one’s breathe away!! However, since there is so much to see in the complex, so many ruins, new & old, scattered across that I decided to break this one long post into several smaller ones (links at the bottom!!) since this way I can easily share a lot of details & the plethora of photos I took (seriously I took almost 400 photos in the complex itself!!).

The Qutb Minar

The most stupid thing about the complex is perhaps its ticket counter – it is situated across the road, opposite the complex - & I could see many tourists going behind the ticket counter to look for the entrance to the complex, but only to find a parking lot filled with buses & taxis. A.S.I. could at least have put signboards here outside indicating directions. The best thing perhaps would be the availability of “audio guides” – you can rent these from the ticket counter itself. All the monuments within the complex are numbered, & you can simply skip to the numbered audio clip in order to know more about its history & construction. The tickets themselves are electronically numbered & at the gatepost outside the complex, guards with electronic readers swipe your tickets to mark your entry into the complex. So far I haven’t seen a similar system in any other complex/world heritage site in India – at all other protected monuments you are simply handed a paper ticket that a guard tears into two at the entrance. Even though this electronic ticket system works without any glitches, I still don’t understand why it was implemented in the first place - the paper ticket seemed to be working just fine. I, like several others who observed this new system, sincerely hope that this system helps curb malpractices in manual ticket sale & revenue collection. Every year, the Qutb Complex receives more number of visitors than even the Taj Mahal, & generates approximately Rs. 100 million in ticket sales. (Reference - "Times of India" article)

Once inside the complex gates, the first structure one notices are the arches under which one has to pass through. These two arches were added to the complex much later by Mughal emperors & formed part of what was once a Serai (inn for travelers & state guests). The Serai exists only in parts now – remnants of walls here & there, some semi-collapsed rooms & several chattris (small dome-like structures supported on thin pillars). However the mosque adjoining this Serai, called the Mughal mosque still exists & is located next to the Complex’s in-house publication shop. The Mughal mosque, though appearing to be dilapidated, has been maintained in a rather unusual manner – its insides have been painted with bright colors – orange, pink & white – giving it a rather funky touch.

The Mughal Mosque

The Qutb Minar stands in the background, a sentinel made of red sandstone, looking over all the proceedings that take place under its (high) watch. Qutbuddin, whose own name means the “Staff of God”, wanted this tall minaret to symbolise his eternal faith & act as an axis for Islam, hence he named this minaret Qutb Minar or “Axis of God”. However Qutbuddin himself was able to complete only the first floor of the minaret, the latter floors were added by other rulers of Delhi, including Qutbuddin’s son-in-law Shamsuddin Iltutmish (1211-36 AD). Feroz Shah Tughlaq (1351-88 AD), the guy who constructed the fortress of Kotla Feroz Shah, also added two floors made of white marble to the minaret after one of the floors built by Iltutmish was destroyed by a lightning strike. Qutbuddin had perhaps wanted his minaret to stand next to his mosque as a victory tower commemorating the establishment of Islamic rule over India. However several contradicting & at times absurd (although interesting) theories also exist about the construction of the Minar, do refer the long post about the minaret for the same. The Qutb Minar is the tallest brick minaret in the world, surpassing by several meters the Minaret at Jam, Afghanistan, that inspired Qutbuddin to embark upon his minaret-building project.

One enters the huge rectangular mosque built by Qutbuddin inside which Qutb Minar stands – his real intentions behind building this mosque were to overawe his new subjects & provide a symbol of faith to his war-fatigued soldiers. 27 temples – some of Hindu religion, other belonging to Jain faith – were fell & local artisans were employed to use the building material from these temples to construct this mosque in order to show the “Quwwat” or might of Islam. Hence the mosque came to be called Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque. In Qutbuddin’s time, Qutb Minar used to stand outside the mosque, but when Iltutmish ascended the throne of Delhi after murdering Qutbuddin’s son Aram Shah, he decided to enlarge the existing mosque & even included the mighty Qutb Minar within its four walls.

The symmetrical cloisters of Quwwat Mosque

One can notice large arches that once formed part of the mihrab (the wall indicating the direction of Mecca, to be faced by Muslims when offering prayers). These arches form part of the screen constructed by Qutbuddin in AD 1199 & were extended by both Iltutmish & Alauddin Khilji (1296-1316 AD). However, only the original arches & the additions by Iltutmish exist today. The Hindu craftsmen employed to build this arch screen had never seen calligraphy on any structure & when ordered to weave Quranic inscriptions in the screen of the mosque, the artisans found themselves at a loss. They left their individualistic marks in the screen in the form of floral carvings & tendrils at the end of these calligraphic strokes. The mosque & its screen arches display a fusion of Hindu & Islamic art forms unlike any other in the world.

In front of this arched screen stands the famous “Iron Pillar”. It is said that the pillar predates the complex by several centuries & formed part of a Vishnu temple. Known globally for its non-rusting properties, this pillar too has its fair share of stories & myths. Many claim that if you are able to grasp the pillar in your arms with your back towards it, your dreams would come true. Being superstitious, the people of the country (& some foreigners too) had started trying the task, their sweat causing corrosive damage to the pillar. Hence in order to protect the pillar, the A.S.I. decided to encircle it with an iron grille – of course this one does get rusted with time.

The mosque has several small arched entrances & windows (many covered by jaalis (stone fretwork), others open), one amongst these is called Alai Darwaza (“Alauddin’s Doorway”). As the name suggests it was built by Alauddin Khilji, & standing on a very high pedestal, this doorway is actually more of a small room, itself pierced on four sides by large arched doors. The Darwaza is very beautifully decorated with designs & geometrical patterns on both inside & outside surfaces. The symmetry in these patterns is simply mind-numbing, the artists went so far as to even cut the designs so as to form locking patterns with the stairs leading down the pedestal.

Down the Darwaza’s pedestal & up another pedestal in front of it, one reaches the tomb of Imam Zamin. A saint from Turkestan who decided to settle in India during the reign of Sultan Sikandar Lodi in 16th century, Zamin was perhaps some important official in Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque, which explains the location of his tomb bang next to the mosque. However historians date its construction to the time of Mughal emperor Humayun. The small tomb houses a marble sarcophagus, a well-chiselled mihrab & some very symmetric fretwork in the carved stone walls.

A small doorway breaks the continuity of the low courtyard walls of the pedestal on which stands Zamin’s Tomb. In the surrounding grounds, one can spot the ruins of several room-like structures, an extremely small wall mosque standing atop another high pedestal & a sundial affixed atop a circular piece of stone. Standing neaby is the cupola constructed by Major Smith of British Royal Engineers, now referred to as Smith’s Folly. At one time this cupola surmounted the Qutb Minar, but it was subsequently brought down, & now lies ignored in a desolate corner of the complex, with some brooms & squirrels for company.

The ruined Wall Mosque

Moving along the periphery of the Quwwat mosque, towards the back of the arched screens are ruins of massive rooms & chambers – these formed part of Alauddin’s Madrasa – a religious school he added to the mosque. Within a part of the Madrasa, Alauddin himself lies buried, but the dome of his tomb fell away a long time back. The Madrasa & Tomb sub-complex runs almost parallel to the shorter sides of the rectangular Quwwat mosque.

Situated some metres ahead of the madrasa is the tomb of Iltutmish. It is interesting to note that after having made so many additions & contributions to the complex, both Iltutmish & Alauddin decided to be interred here, Built of red sandstone, Iltutmish’s tomb appears a simple structure from the outside – striking calligraphy & patterns embellish one of its sides, the other three are plain. But on the inside, the tomb is lavishly carved with so many intricate designs, it is simply a treat to look at, & one simply gets confounded thinking about all those designs & wondering what to photograph & what not to. One excellent thing about the complex is that it is very disabled-friendly, & ramps exist along almost every structure, including Iltutmish’s & Alauddin’s tombs, for ease of wheelchair access.

Having run around & photographed to my satisfaction almost all the built monuments within the complex, I next headed to the Alai Minar, a large rubble-dressed tower built by Alauddin which was intended to be twice the size of Qutb Minar, but could not be completed due to the untimely death of Alauddin.

Smith's Folly (Background - Qutb Minar, Alai Darwaza & Zamin's Tomb)

The Qutb Complex, despite once being the capital of the Muslim Sultans, fell out gradually from map after Alauddin Khilji built his nearby fortress of Siri & abandoned the existing capital of Lal Kot with most of his population. The Complex was soon reclaimed by wilderness & turned into the ruins that we see today. Magnanimously, these ruins still betray their once stunning grandeur.

Studded with sophisticated calligraphy, ornate designs & patterns, & replete with exemplar craftsmanship, Qutb is one of the most fascinating monuments in Delhi. Hopefully I shall be returning to Mehrauli sometime soon to visit other nearby heritage structures. The place has certainly found a way to my heart. Returning back, I even spotted one of Metcalfe’s Ziggurats peeping out of a grilled complex besides Qutb Complex. Anxious to return & explore more of the area!!

Open: Sunrise to Sunset
Entrance fee: Indians - Rs 10, Foreigners - Rs 250 (Free for children upto the age of 15).
Photography charges: Nil
Video charges: Rs 25
Nearest Metro Station: Saket Metro Station & Qutb Minar Station are equidistant.
How to reach: Taxis, buses & autos can be availed from different parts of the city. The structures are quite a walk from the metro stations & one will have to take bus/auto from there on.
Time required for sightseeing: 3 hrs
Facilities available: Wheelchair access, Audio guides.
Relevant Links -

Also See - Pixelated Memories - Kotla Feroz Shah

December 07, 2012

Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque, Delhi

This post is part of series about Qutb Complex, Mehrauli, Delhi. The integrated post about the complex and the structures within can be accessed from here – Pixelated Memories - Qutb Complex.

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Worth knowing before commencing this article – When the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), via Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act 1958, notified monuments/religious shrines as national and “preserved” heritage, it was agreed upon that those religious structures that were still in use for prayers at the time of notification shall maintain status quo and be administered by the respective religious/denominational authorities (Hindu/Sikh temple managing committees, Wakf Boards etc) while being restored/conserved for future generations by ASI or State archaeology departments. In no circumstances were permissions to be granted in future for prayers to be conducted in structures that were abandoned and/or not in use at the time of notification.

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"Masjidon main maulvi khutbe sunate hi rahe, Mandiron mein brahman ashlok gatey hi rahey
Ik na ik dar par jabeen-i-shouq ghisti hi rahi, Aadamiyat zulm ki chakki mein pisti hi rahi
Rahbari jaari rahi, paighambari jaari rahi, Deen ke parde mein jang-i-zargari jaari rahi"

("The mullah, the pundit and their ceaseless sermon, Man bowed before each but did he learn
The great messiahs came claiming divinity, Their religions ruses for plunder turn by turn")

– Asraar ul-Haq Majaaz, "Khwaab-i-Sahar" (1939)

Physically, the decrepit Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque stands pretty close to the colossal Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque within Qutb Complex, but figuratively speaking, it is far from it – far in terms of size and grandeur, also far in terms of antiquity, and farthest when it comes to popularity among tourists and history seekers. But undeniably it is most distant with regards to the attention the two adjacent located mosques get from ASI and other competent authorities. Perhaps as a proof of this stepmother treatment, even the sandstone plaque that ASI has put up outside this unassuming structure doesn’t mention its name or elaborate on its features, but passingly makes mention of it and christens it with a vague, very general nomenclature – “Mughal Mosque”. As far as my knowledge goes, Mughal Dynasty officially ruled India from AD 1526-1857 and during the said period not just Emperors and their direct families, but also members of regal lesser family lines, court officials, military generals, affluent dervishes and even powerful slaves, commissioned several mosques throughout the country. Had the higher-ups within ASI deigned to properly classify this particular (and several other) mosque and provided some information about its constuction, it would have been possible to place it somewhere historically and imagine what it must have been like once. But then the ASI would probably squarely delegate the blame on Wakf Board of India under whose care the mosque falls.

Forgotten heritage - Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque

But while ASI might actually forget this medieval structure, the communal forces that forever threaten to rip this country apart never leave a stone upturned to lay their diabolical claim on religious properties of another community. The mosque is in news all of a sudden (again unlike its older sibling, the mighty Quwwat Mosque, which has never been out of news) and that too because of wrong interpretation of historical records and legislative rules. A number of fiercely intolerant Hindu groups such as Vishwa Hindu Parishad (VHP) and Bajrang Dal claim that the Quwwat mosque should be handed over to them since it has been built on the remains of Hindu and Jain temples – they have been trying to gain entry to the mosque in order to place idols of Hindu deities and perform prayers. The said groups have had this inspiration from the fact that pre-existing statues of Hindu deities that once formed the carved pillars and sculptures within these temples were disfigured and used in the construction of Quwwat Mosque. Also, since both the Quwwat and Tarikh mosques exist in immediate vicinity of each other, these groups believe that they are part of the same super-structure and are apparently miffed that the Govt. has allowed Muslims to pray at the Tarikh Mosque and placed it in the hands of the Wakf Board. Now where have we heard that before? Words like “Babri” and “demolished” ring in my ears. The sudden excitement confounds me, since the mosques are centuries old!! This scuffle has been going on for quite some time now, and Maulana Sher Muhammad, the imam (preacher) officiating at Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque even proceeded to write articles about the issue in the Muslim bi-monthly newsletter “Milli Gazette”, which can be accessed here – Milligazette.com - Another 'Babri' in the making and Milligazette.com - Masjid Quwwatul Islam. Mr. Sher Muhammad claims to be supported by priests of nearby renowned Hindu temples such as Chattarpur who too do not want another bout of religious bickering and political exploitation. Several members of VHP have been arrested in association with this mischief and the police has been forced to resort to cordoning off the entire Qutb complex, a renowned World Heritage Site, as and when the situation demands.

It just might disappear behind the canopy!

What the VHP and its vitriolic band of followers do not grasp is that it is not the Tarikh Mosque that was built by demolishing Hindu temples, but the adjoining Quwwat Mosque!! Qutubuddin Aibak, the slave and army commander of Muhammad Ghuri (and later the first Muslim Sultan of India), fell 27 temples of Hindu and Jain denominations to construct his magnum Quwwat/Qutb Mosque. The same is also recounted in one of the inscriptions installed in the mosque walls since the time of Qutubuddin. The translation reads –

“This Jami Masjid (Quwwat Mosque) built in the months of the year 587 (hijri) by the Amir, the great, the glorious commander of the Army, Qutub-ud-daula wad-din, the amir-ul-umara Aibeg, the slave of the Sultan, may God strengthen his helpers! The materials of 27 idol temples, on each of which 2,000,000 Deliwal coins had been spent were used in (construction of) this mosque.”

No prayers are offered at the Quwwat mosque since it fell into disuse and apparent ruin during the reign of Sultan Alauddin Khilji (ruled 1296-1316 AD) following the shift of capital from nearby medieval fortress of Lal Kot to the newly built Siri Fort. Lal Kot was the first city of Delhi as we know it and its ruins are situated quite close to the Qutb Complex. The Tarikh mosque, the bone of confused, misguided contention where prayers are still offered and never ceased to be offered, came up much, much later – in fact, guessing from its dilapidated condition and lack of ornamentation, one might contend that it was in all probability commissioned by some late-Mughal (18-19th century) administrative official or court noble. It is worth noting that in late 18th century, Mehrauli (the first city of Delhi, the area where both the Qutb complex and Lal Kot, and several other structures of historic interest are located) made a resurgence as the favored abode and summer retreat of Mughal rulers and English East India Company colonialist officials. Several later Mughal rulers too are buried in Mehrauli and there also are a few small palaces, tombs, pleasure pavilions and settlements. There is no particular reason why prayers shouldn’t be offered at the Tarikh Mosque since it has been in use since its inception and is not a disputed property, unlike the controversial Quwwat Mosque.

Locked forever!!

Located behind the souvenir and sales department of Qutb complex, Tarikh mosque is the least visited structure in the enormous complex (there wasn't a single visitor, except a few devout coming to offer prayers, for the entire time I was roaming about the complex). It felt odd to be the only person clicking photographs of this dilapidated structure, though that is actually what I wish for when photographing monuments since people tend to walk in the frame and spoil the composition. A few men, possibly the caretakers and gardeners who tend the Mughal Serai-Garden sub-complex opposite (refer Pixelated Memories - Mughal Serai), sat gossiping in a shady corner. The mosque presents a picture of desolation and dilapidation against the ever-growing, picturesque trees that grow in its small courtyard. Hiding the mosque from the eyes of curious onlookers, these greens grow in abundance and would have offered their produce to visitors had they not been so rare. Even rarer are consideration and funds for the mosque's conservation. It survives in a rather sorry state, its three onion domes blackened with time, its exteriors cracking and the two minarets that stand at the ends of its facade appearing like they are going to fall apart. The wooden entrance door that faces the walkway leading to the more-distinguished structures within the complex remains perennially locked now, its hinges topped by what appears like earthen ware to me. An alternate entrance that faces the facade of the mosque, but is a detour from the designated pathways, is presently the entry point.

The three domes stand over the three arched entrances of the poor mosque. It is easy to imagine that once stucco medallions and floral/geometric designs must have covered these arches and the rest of the exteriors. Alas, none of it ever existed. All you see is the small-flower like ornamental pendant over the central arch, varied patterns around the arches and curves and contours underneath. Leave alone precious gems and precisely-carved inscriptions, not even marble or stone ever covered these rubble walls which are cracked from the brunt of the various storms the mosque might have seen. No wonder it is quite easy to ignore its mere existence!

The beauty is in the simplicity

The interiors, painted in funky, bright colors, are a different scene altogether!! While the walls alternate between pink and white, the mihrab (western wall of a mosque that indicates the direction of Mecca and is faced by the devout while offering prayers) is slightly orange-ish. The paintwork appears to be pretty thick – I cannot fathom who got the brilliant idea of coloring a time-worn mosque with such shades and what were the authorities doing when such a travesty was taking place?! There isn’t much to observe inside – the arched triple-chamber is highly symmetrical, but lacking in ornamentation of any form. A window opens up towards the Qutb complex, one can spot tourists heading towards the majestic Quwwat mosque. Sadly, they all missed out this delightful, little gem.

I don't know what to make of these colors!

Outside again, I contemplate the mosque's fate while sitting on a bench placed by ASI close to the publication counter. Even the benches have their back to the structure which has survived the furies of time and nature, only to be threatened by men hell-bent on felling it to serve their own purposes. Who is to be pitied more, I wonder.

If the world is God's, the colors too are..

Location: Qutb Complex, Mehrauli, New Delhi
Open: Sunrise to Sunset
Nearest Metro Station: Saket and Qutb Minar stations are equidistant.
How to reach: Taxis, buses and autos can be availed from different parts of the city. Avail a bus/auto from the metro station (approx. 2 km either).
Entrance fees: Indians: Rs 10; Foreigners: Rs 250; Free for children up to 15 years of age.
Photography charges: Nil
Video charges: Rs 25
Time required for sightseeing: 30 min
Facilities available: Wheelchair access, Audio guides.
Relevant Links -

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Worth considering after reading this article – Doesn’t our country have enough problems already? Aren’t we already fighting against and killing our own countrymen for one reason or another? I take pride in being an atheist and while I chide Hindu fundamentalists for raking up such issues in the name of safeguarding Hindu interests, I also stand against the Muslim demands of allowing prayers and religious gatherings in mosques like Qila-i-Kuhna (Old Fort), Moti Masjid (Red Fort), Khair-ul-Manazil (Shergarh), Jamali-Kamali and Rajon ki Baoli (Mehrauli Archaeological Park both). Also I would advise Maulana Muhammad not to distort historical facts in his articles – the Quwwat Mosque was built by demolishing temples. Qutubddin’s inscription and the records of his chronicler Hasan Nizami note the same. What's the point of denying history or accusing ASI authorities of spreading malicious falsehoods when they state that idols were recovered in excavations at the complex or that the pillars were pillaged from destroyed temples when the proof is there for all to see? Shouldn’t we be making bonds and breaking taboos, rather than making barriers and breaking heritage buildings?

December 16, 2012

Qutb Complex, New Delhi

December 07, 2012

Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque, Delhi

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