Sunehri Masjid (near Red Fort), New Delhi

Dusk was setting in and I was still walking along the periphery of the magnificent fortress that is Shahjahan’s legacy in the city of cities, unsure whether to head home or explore the old city some more, I let my feet guide me. The last vestiges of daylight were slowly giving way to creeping darkness; birds had returned to their nests in the trees and the lofty electricity towers that span this city like sentinels possessed with the sole aim of supporting a veil of thick black cables, the chirping soon grew to proportions that could drive anyone paying attention insane – it’s another thing that no one was paying any attention to the screeching and cawing birds – it was the night bazaar that had everyone’s eyes, as the morning traders collected their wares and folded their makeshift shops, their places were taken by evening traders – the aromas of rich, mouth-watering foods wafted through the smog-filled air, cars and autorickshaws competed in bouts of mad honking against each other, halogen bulbs threw yellow light that seemed inviting in the darkness of dusk but were soon overshadowed by the high beams of passing cars, a police patrol sirened its way through the flood of humanity that had littered on the streets like ants gathering around sugar. The ruckus, the din, the lights and the noise – each conspired to create an environment meant to overawe and trap visitors, to amaze them with new sights, to bind them with delicious smells.

Golden Mosque

It was under these circumstances that I found my way to Sunehri Masjid (“Golden Mosque”) located near the Delhi Gate of the Red Fort – a small mosque with big dreams, Sunehri Masjid is a child’s replica of the gigantic Jama Masjid that Shahjahan (ruled AD 1628-58) had commissioned at the height of Mughal supremacy (refer Pixelated Memories - Jama Masjid). But that’s where the similarities stop – while Jama Masjid’s towering minarets loom above the cityscape, this little mosque is overshadowed by the trees that populate its courtyard; massive gateways mark the entry to Jama Masjid, a small entrance is all that the Sunehri Masjid can boast of. One last similarity between the two mosques is that no priest climbs up either’s twin minarets to call the faithful to prayer – he won’t be heard from the height of Jama Masjid’s towers, he won’t be able to fit in Sunehri Masjid’s towers.

The entrance is decorated in patterns and artwork and is perhaps the most interesting feature of the mosque – embedded within the rubble periphery of the courtyard, the gateway possesses the flowing curves and arches that were a trademark of Mughal architecture, though like the rest of the artwork these too appear understated. The gateway opens to a wide staircase that leads up to the mosque’s courtyard; a peep back reveals stairs leading from the courtyard to the gateway’s roof level – one wonders how far one can see after climbing atop this small structure – not very far if you ask me. 

Entrance gateway - Modest

The mosque’s bulbous domes and slender minarets are hidden from view by a curtain of canopy – trees that decided to outgrow the structure they were supposed to beautify. It’s prayer time, about a dozen or so men are gathered in the mosque’s interiors listening to the sermons being delivered by an Imam (priest) – darkness covers every face, there is not a light in the mosque though one can make out the cheerfully painted interiors in the light of the setting sun. I would have loved to see some more but the Imam asked me (rather roughly) to step out of the mosque even though I wasn't inconveniencing the devotees in any way - how was I to know that it would be prayer time and you would take offense even if someone comes and stands in the end just so s/he can admire the mosque?? The interior artwork has disappeared, long buried under thick coats of paint; a cobwebbed fan looks desolately from behind the central arch, perhaps a beautiful handcrafted lamp hung in its place once. Rolled up prayer mats stand against each arch wall; one notices that the courtyard floor has flower-shaped depressions meant as ornamentation along its entire surface. A plaque above the central arched entrance is inscribed with details of the mosque’s construction – it was commissioned by Mumtaz Mahal Sahiba Qudsia Begum and its building was overseen by Nawab Bahadur Javed Khan, the mother and head eunuch respectively of Badshah Ghazi Ahmed Shah Bahadur (reigned AD 1748-54). Qudsia Begum (aka Udham Bai) was once a dancer – she must have been pretty good at her art because the Emperor Muhammad Shah (ruled AD 1719-48) decided to marry her and placed in her tender hands a contingent of 50,000 armed soldiers. The Queen slowly became so influential that she began to dictate the affairs of the state; she became one of the royal administrators when her son succeeded her husband – apparently Ahmed Shah was illiterate in the arts and learning and untaught in military and martial training (illiterate, a prince? Surprising, right?). 

Close up - The only view unimpeded by the tree line

The mosque, completed in the year 1750-51 towards the fag end of the once mighty empire, adds to the list of buildings the Begum patronized (another is the Qudsia Bagh mosque-garden complex in Kashmere Gate area), though am yet to learn why she is considered a patron of arts and architecture if she commissioned only two buildings and her own son was never educated in arts and learning – a clear example of overstated royalty, and of course, poor parenting!! The mosque’s onion domes were once gilded with copper and that gave it its glistening golden tint and hence the name – the copper was replaced with red sandstone facing when the last Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah “Zafar” II had the mosque repaired in the year 1852. Not that his devotion helped him – he was the Emperor of a finished empire, wisp of an already extinguished fire, lording from a fortress that had become a skeleton of its former glory over a territory that was his only in name – he was removed from even the nominal position merely five years after he had the mosque repaired, tried for war crimes perpetrated against the British during the First War of Independence/Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 and exiled to Rangoon (Burma/Myanmar). Strange is the tide of life – a dancer becomes an Empress, an Emperor becomes a prisoner!! 

For details and photographs of the Sunehri Masjid on Chandni Chowk street, refer - Pixelated Memories - Sunehri Masjid

Location: Near Delhi Gate of Red Fort
Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk
How to reach: Buses plying from different parts of the city for Red Fort/Delhi Gate (of Shahjanabad)/Mori Gate will drop you opposite Red Fort. Walk towards the Delhi Gate of Red Fort; Sunehri Masjid is near the parking lot.
Open: Sunrise to sunset
Entrance fees: Nil
Photography/Video charges: Nil
Time required for sightseeing: 20 min
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Jama Masjid
2. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort
3. Pixelated Memories - Sunehri Masjid (Chandni Chowk street)

Kos Minar, Faridabad, Haryana

Ever conscious of ensuring the availability of public amenities in order to improve the living conditions of their subjects, the Mauryan rulers (ruled BC 322-185) often thought up of ingenious ideas to ensure the presence of several facilities & conditions for their well-being. The chief among these was the establishment of a major highway that connected the furthest frontiers of eastern India to Central Asia as far as Afghanistan & Iran via Delhi, Agra & Punjab. The highway curved & slithered its way through various megacities & small townships & helped maintain trade & diplomatic relationships with several nations including the far-flung Greek states. Dynasties of rulers came & went, first the Hindus lorded over the country, then came the Muslims, but the trade route maintained its status quo. In AD 1540, the Afghan Governor of Bengal, Sher Shah Suri overthrew the rule of Mughal emperor Humayun, became the Emperor of India & established the Sur Dynasty rule over the subcontinent. The five years that Sher Shah ruled over India were characterized by an overhaul of the administrative, financial, military, communication & postal system, as well as the provision & betterment of several civic facilities. Among one of the most popular & essential steps taken by Sher Shah was the construction of the Sher Shah Suri Marg aka the Grand Trunk (GT) Road which overlapped with the Mauryan trade route & connected Chittagong (in modern-day Bangladesh) to Kabul (in modern-day Afghanistan). Unlike the Mauryan road which was built simply by leveling mud, the GT Road was sturdy & usable in all weather conditions. Serais (inns) were built along the road for the convenience of the travelers, toll taxes were abolished & trees were planted on either side of the road to provide shade. Later in 1555 AD, when Humayun again gained control of India, he continued with Sher Shah’s policy of maintaining these arterial roads through state financing & protection. However it was Humayun’s son, Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar (ruled AD 1556-1605) who understood the advantages these roads conferred to an emperor & began taking an active interest in their upkeep & ensuring that they remained free of brigands & bandits. The road was levelled out, its cursive bends were removed & replaced by straight stretches, shade-giving & fruit-bearing trees were planted for the convenience of travelers & merchants.

Most importantly, Akbar (& later his successors Jahangir & Shahjahan) continued with Sher Shah’s system of marking distances with Kos Minars (mile markers) & ordered their construction in 1574 AD. Kos Minar were 30 feet tall conical towers (a few were cylindrical too), very thick at the base, & were constructed every 1 kos (approx. 3 kilometer  along the routes that connected Agra (then Mughal capital) to Ajmer (via Jaipur) in west, Lahore (via Delhi) in north, Mandu (via Shivpuri) in south. Later this network of minarets was extended as far as Peshawar in the west & Bengal in the east & connected the provinces of Burhanpur, Agra, Amritsar, Multan, Lahore, Delhi, Jodhpur & Chittor. Fortified caravnserais furnished with fresh water reservoirs were built at every eighth Kos Minar. Trade flourished because of the establishment of these highways & the mile markers, soon the country side prospered too. Akbar’s chronicler Abu Fazl writes about these minarets in his magnum “Akbarnama” & tells us that Akbar decreed the construction of many of these minarets & these were primarily meant for the convenience of travelers & merchants, & were to act as beacons to lost & fatigued travelers.

The Kos Minar at Badarpur

The minarets must have been a magnificent sight for the weary travelers who would have been equally amazed by the minaret’s size & the Mughal’s & strength & reach. It was along the Kos Minars that military check posts & communication outposts were established, thereby boosting the efficiency of communications & surveillance. The outposts were meant to counter the threats of rebels, bandits & renegade generals & nobles. Official message-carriers & horses were kept stationed at Kos Minars. The rider carried an urgent message from one minar to another traversing several kos this way & finally breaking off his journey at one of the minarets where he either stopped to have rest & refreshments at the nearby serai, or passed on the message to another courier stationed at the Kos Minar who then carried it forward. The emperor as well as his generals changed horses at Kos Minars when travelling far & wide – a man sitting on top of the minaret spotted the incoming party even when it was still far away & had the horsekeepers prepare the horses for the exchange. Huge distances could be covered in short periods of time – it is said that the system was so efficient & extensive that once, to the surprise of his enemies, Akbar covered the distance between Gujarat & Delhi on horseback in 11 days & defeated his half brother Mirza Hakim & several other relatives who were plotting against him. In 1607, Akbar’s son & successor, Jahangir (ruled AD 1605-27) ordered the Zamindars of the area covered by the Agra-Lahore route to plant shade-giving trees such as mulberry at regular intervals. In 1619, he ordered Baqir Khan, the Faujdar of Multan, to establish Kos Minars in his city. Jahangir also had wells dug up every 3 kos distance on the highways & bridges constructed across rivers. Aurangzeb’s rule (AD 1658-1707) saw the number of serais to increase manifolds & there was one serai situate alongside every fifth minaret. The serais however were not always maintained by the emperor, but were often patronized by the royal family, powerful nobility, philanthropic individuals & wealthy merchants.

At the height of the Mughal empire, the highways spanned almost 3000-kilometers in total & boasted of hundreds of Kos Minars, however very few of these survive now - about 49 in Haryana, 10 in Punjab, 5 in Uttar Pradesh & only 2-3 in Delhi, a few have also been maintained beyond the border in Pakistan. Most of the minarets were lost over time to natural forces, disrepair, encroachments, wanton destruction & industrial & public space requirements. Many have been broken down & refurbished to act as godowns or shops. All the minarets broadly follow the same design – built of bricks & stones & plastered over with lime, they generally stood on a masonry base. For half of their height they were tapering octagonal in design, above that they were tapering conic topped by a hemispherical knob-like formation. The whole network of minarets was an impressive initiative, but individually the minarets were bare structures, possessing none or very little ornamentation or inscriptions along their circumference – red bands & mouldings with geometrical patterns demarcated the octagonal base from the conic portion, a similar pattern existed just below the top knob. They were meant to serve practical purpose & were certainly not the architectural beauty or visual delights that the other Mughal structures exemplified. The Kos Minar at Badarpur is no exception. Located on one of the road dividers close to the Badarpur Bus Stand, the minaret can be best understood by the following lines by from the poem “Ozymandias” composed by the English poet P.B. Shelley

"Nothing beside remains. Round the decay

Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare

The lone and level sands stretch far away."

Dwarfed & obsolete..

The 30-feet tall minaret dates back to Jahangir’s time & is now no more than 4 feet in height as a result of the repeated layering of the road around it. The minaret is one of the very few survivors of its species, & to ensure that it is not vandalized an iron-grille enclosure has been constructed around it. Gensets buzz nearby, the serais & the outposts that must have once existed close by have disappeared, there place has been taken up by a metro station, an auto stand & rows of shops. Buses, cars, trucks & lorries now ply instead of horses, camels & elephants on the road next to the minaret. A metro line & a flyover stretch across on either side of the minaret, marking perhaps the point where its vertical reach once extended to. More importantly, the people who pass the Kos Minar everyday do not seem to even give it a second thought, most of them are unaware of its purpose & cannot even begin to imagine that there were once hundreds more of its kind. The Government or the Archaeological Survey of India (A.S.I.) never executed a formal study of the Kos Minar’s locations, function or history, so I do not know their exact number (the British administration of pre-independence India did declare the Kos Minar as protected monuments in 1918 & carried out some restoration work, but it was soon abandoned after independence & the minarets left to fend for themselves. The British also actively repaired & maintained the GT Road). Even it is not clear how many of these minarets survive now & where. The minarets that were supposed to be repaired were given such a makeover that their historical character was lost to the layers of paint & plaster. This lackadaisical attitude of the authorities & the obscurity to which these minarets have been relegated becomes even more pronounced when one notes that with the exception of a few places, most of India & Pakistan’s major highways essentially run along the road that the Mauryas built & the Surs & the Mughals maintained. “Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"

Location: Badarpur Border, Close to the Badarpur Metro Station
Photography/Video Charges: Nil

Suggested Reading - 

1. Lahorenama/Haroon Khalid - Kos Minar
2. The Hindu - On the meandering highway of history (article dated June 27, 2005)
3. The Tribune - Signposts lost in history (article dated Sept 10, 2006)
4. thefreelibrary.com - Travelling with the Mughals: a survey of the Agra-Lahore highway

Jama Masjid, New Delhi

Jama Masjid, the Friday congregational mosque built by the Mughal emperor Shahjahan, is one of the most visited & most beautiful monuments in the entire Delhi. Located in the narrow lanes of Old Delhi/Chandni Chowk, the sheer size & grandeur of the mosque is a contrast to the streets & houses around it. Having visited Chandni Chowk several times in the past, I had a deep-seated wish to visit this monument & bask in its brilliant architecture & see its sky-piercing minarets up close. So when my sisters Saloni & Shruti suggested a visit to Chandni Chowk, I thought of it as a great opportunity to visit this royal mosque. Every time I had been to the Chandni Chowk area, I could not visit Jama Masjid due to one reason or the other, & had to be content with seeing the mosque from far away & in one case, from the back of it & imagining what it would be like from inside. But as I have now realized, the photos do no justice to this magnificent mosque.

The Jama Masjid

As one nears the mosque, the incredible size is enough to make you gush with amazement, however what you see from outside is not even a fraction of what lies in store for you in the complex grounds. 3 imposing entry gates, located on the north, south & east of the central prayer hall provide access to the complex grounds. The gates are themselves located on high ground & each is reached after climbing a high flight of wide stairs.

Before entering you are advised to read the rules that need to be observed inside. You are required to dress properly, failing which the caretakers would provide you with gowns to wear. This holds for both men & women, but is applied more often to women. The entry is free to all, irrespective of religion, caste or sex. However during the time of Namaz or other religious ceremonies, this “open to all” rule is repealed. As it happened, we reached at the time of afternoon Namaz & being non-Muslims, we were denied entry to the complex & told to wait for 45min. So one needs to time their visit properly, or wait for the Namaz to be over.

Close up of one of the entrance gates

A board put up on the gates states that one needs to buy a ticket worth Rs 300 for photography. However nobody was buying those tickets (I did not even see any official vendor selling them, it seemed that the rule was being enforced only by some young lads, 1-2 standing on each gate) & as I noticed inside, everyone was taking photographs too without any qualms, or paying any fees.

The view from the chaotic market place around the mosque

Once inside the great beauty & even greater number of people sleeping in the complex ground & prayer hall shocked me. I still don’t understand why people were being allowed to squatter & sleep in this national monument. I have seen people finding an asylum in places of worship throughout the country, but here I was more stunned since the people were sleeping in the courtyards & the wall alcoves even during the day time.

As we moved inside the main grounds, the first thing one observes (besides the mosque itself) is a cluster of people sitting around a square pool in the center of the courtyard. The water from the pool is used for ritual washing before praying inside the mosque. Since one is supposed to take off their shoes before entering the premises, our feet were burning as a result of walking on the heated up marble & the pool provided a relief where although we did not wash our feet for fear of offending the religious sensibilities of the Muslims present, we walked on the small puddles of water that dripped from the Namazis & even that was enough to cheer us up. The courtyard is around 75mX66m, large enough to accommodate 25,000 people, making Jama Masjid the largest mosque in the country. In front of the pool is a raised platform called Dikka. The mosque is so big that a second cleric (Muatllawi), used to stand on the Dikka and repeat the Ayats said by the the chief cleric (Imam) to the devotees who were unable to hear him. Taking pictures of the prayer hall & surrounding gates we spent a lot of time in the courtyard & I was even stopped by a guy asking me for my photography ticket. However after arguing about whether the other people taking photographs bought tickets or not, he let me go. One can simply say that they entered from the other gate & nobody on that gate said anything about a ticket. Once done with the photography there, we reached the prayer hall.

Enchanting!!

In 1650 Shah Jahan laid the foundation of this mosque, then known as “Masjid-i-Jahanuma” (“mosque commanding view of the world”), and it was completed in 1656. The mosque has three striped domes and two huge striped minarets (41m high) on either side (they don't look as imposing in pictures as they do in real life). The architect of this magnificent mosque was Ustad Khalil & around 6,000 artists worked on its construction, using only red sandstone & white marble. The entire complex stands on a high pedestal called the Bho Jhala hill & is a testimony to their prowess. During construction, special care was taken to maintain the level of the pulpit of the mosque above that of the royal throne (chaired by the emperor) in the Red Fort. A princely sum of Rs 1,000,000 was spent on the construction of Jama Masjid under the supervision of Saadullah Khan, Shah Jahan’s Minister-in-Charge of construction. Many nobles and nawabs of that era gifted stones and other construction material to the emperor for the mosque’s construction, which therefore are not included in its cost. The total area covered by this mosque is approx. 1200 square meters & running around in the complex as I did will get you tired very soon. Carrying a water bottle (or 2-3; you will need them) would be a good idea. Also one would do good to stay on the thin carpets/jute mats that are spread on the ground to provide pathways for the visitors to walk on. However if you intend to take photographs, you can’t stay on these routes as they constrict your view to a limited angle. Also as I observed, the ropes were torn to pieces at places, & more often than not, filled with stones that hurt your feet. It’s better to instead wear 2 pairs of socks as a moderator for the fiery heat. Better still, visit the place in winters or early morning.

The central hall is large, & once again a large number of people were sleeping or just sitting in groups inside the hall. Somehow it just stole the appeal of the mosque for me.

Lets sleep here - In the central prayer chamber

Since both my sisters were by now tired of running around with me (they hate photography & would rather sit in some shady corner than go around in sultry heat), I left them together to sit in the hall while I went around. The calligraphy on the walls of the hall is impressive. The Jama Masjid is covered with intricate carvings and has verses inscribed from the holy Quran.

The walls of the mosque are decorated with calligraphy & exquisite patterns

The grand Red Fort stands on the eastern side of the Jama Masjid & can be seen from one of the gates of the mosque. The architecture of the mosque is very scientific. It is said that the walls are built in such an angled manner that if there is an earthquake ever the walls would fall towards the outside.

The patterns & calligraphy in the central niche of the mihrab 

One thing that appealed to me the most was the thought of climbing up one of the minarets. I had always wanted to go up there & see what it looked like. One has to buy a ticket for Rs 30 from a small counter located next to the main hall to go up there. However women are not allowed to go alone to the top of the minaret. The way is from one of the adjacent gates & after climbing the stairs for some 5 minutes, I was amazed as to how much I have to climb. Then there was a glimmer of light & I had reached the first floor of the gate. After some more clicking, I moved towards the base of the minaret, indicated by the jute strips that covered the ground, supposedly to protect one’s feet from heat & stones. Here on the mid-level too, socks are very useful, as the torn strips of jute provide no relief from the burning cement. The domes look awe-inspiring from this point. Standing next to them, one notices how big they are, & their simple design with alternate black & white marble strips makes them look even more beautiful. The artists who created this mosque were creative in their own sense. Even the minarets are decorated with alternate red & white marble strips.

Going high - The mosque as seen from one of the gate's ceiling

Continuing the ascent up the narrow & dark stairs I was breathless & wished the emperor provided some resting space in between (Advice - Claustrophobes would be better off not climbing the minarets). Slots have been provided in the wall for light & air, & now even bulbs have been installed at regular distances. However it is very hard to imagine how people managed in the times of Mughals, in the absence of light bulbs & using lanterns etc. After the tiring climb, I reached the top where a small balcony with windows has been provided to see the view spread out under one’s feet. One can see the entire old city from this point & after climbing up the narrow stairs of the minarets I found that I did well by coming up there as the view was simply breath taking.

My beloved Delhi!!

Even the Red Fort looks much more stunning when seen from this point. The balcony is very small, & barely accommodated the 5 people including me who were standing there. I felt slightly claustrophobic & constantly afraid of falling down, as the floor ended immediately in the center & stairs began. So I stuck to the edges, holding on to the grill (which also move to & fro as you push them – please don’t try pushing them hard, I am sure they will give way).

View from the minaret - the Red Fort, pinnacle of Shahjahan's building prowess

Trying to balance my camera after tying its straps to my wrist, I pushed my hands out of the grills & started clicking when I noticed a guy scribbling on the walls of the balcony. I wanted to shout at him for defacing the monument, but was unable to since I was standing on a thin, lofty section of floor & was afraid of rolling down any time. It is disgusting when people write or spit on the monuments & tarnish the walls with their love stories. It is distasteful, nobody wants to know whom you love & more often than not, the following visitors will be abusing you for spoiling a perfectly beautiful place. The sad part is the guy was a Muslim & the mosque is supposed to be sacred to him. Finishing with my photography, I started the long climb down, this time more slow & grabbing the narrow walls for support.

Keeping an eye

I read that the cabinet in the north gate of the Jama Masjid contains a collection of Muhammad's relics - the Quran written on deerskin, a red beard-hair of the prophet, his sandals and his footprints, implanted in a marble block. However since that time I was not aware of these antiques I did not inquire about their whereabouts. But now that I know, maybe next time when I go there I will go see them too.

Royal entrance - A gate as seen from the minaret

Outside one of the gates of the mosque, a perennial fair ensues everyday - hawkers assemble to peddle carpets, clothes, utensils, kebabs & sweets & thousands of visitors grace the streets. Simply said, the Jama Masjid is a head turner, the iconic architecture of this exquisitely designed monument exuding old world charm & royalty, & it’s location in one of the busiest areas of Delhi, along with its honor of being the last structure built by Shahjahan before being imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb in Agra, make this a must visit place for all visitors to the historic city of Delhi. The onion-shaped domes & tall minarets, despite their gigantism exude serenity & harmony, the whole complex is peaceful & makes you want to sit down & spend some more time & think over the larger scheme of things.

Domes!!

Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk
Open: All days
Timings: 7am - 6:30pm, Tourists not allowed during prayer times
Entry Fees: Nil
Photography/Videos Charges: Rs 300 (I did not pay this amount)
Time required for sightseeing: 3hrs
Preferable timings: Early morning to avoid the crowds & heat
Requirements: Wear proper clothes, avoid shorts, sleeve-less shirts/tops. Wear good, thick socks. Carry lots of drinking water.
Relevant Links - 

1. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort