Sunehri Masjid (near Red Fort), New Delhi

Dusk was setting in and I was still walking along the periphery of the magnificent fortress that is Shahjahan’s legacy in the city of cities, unsure whether to head home or explore the old city some more, I let my feet guide me. The last vestiges of daylight were slowly giving way to creeping darkness; birds had returned to their nests in the trees and the lofty electricity towers that span this city like sentinels possessed with the sole aim of supporting a veil of thick black cables, the chirping soon grew to proportions that could drive anyone paying attention insane – it’s another thing that no one was paying any attention to the screeching and cawing birds – it was the night bazaar that had everyone’s eyes, as the morning traders collected their wares and folded their makeshift shops, their places were taken by evening traders – the aromas of rich, mouth-watering foods wafted through the smog-filled air, cars and autorickshaws competed in bouts of mad honking against each other, halogen bulbs threw yellow light that seemed inviting in the darkness of dusk but were soon overshadowed by the high beams of passing cars, a police patrol sirened its way through the flood of humanity that had littered on the streets like ants gathering around sugar. The ruckus, the din, the lights and the noise – each conspired to create an environment meant to overawe and trap visitors, to amaze them with new sights, to bind them with delicious smells.

Golden Mosque

It was under these circumstances that I found my way to Sunehri Masjid (“Golden Mosque”) located near the Delhi Gate of the Red Fort – a small mosque with big dreams, Sunehri Masjid is a child’s replica of the gigantic Jama Masjid that Shahjahan (ruled AD 1628-58) had commissioned at the height of Mughal supremacy (refer Pixelated Memories - Jama Masjid). But that’s where the similarities stop – while Jama Masjid’s towering minarets loom above the cityscape, this little mosque is overshadowed by the trees that populate its courtyard; massive gateways mark the entry to Jama Masjid, a small entrance is all that the Sunehri Masjid can boast of. One last similarity between the two mosques is that no priest climbs up either’s twin minarets to call the faithful to prayer – he won’t be heard from the height of Jama Masjid’s towers, he won’t be able to fit in Sunehri Masjid’s towers.

The entrance is decorated in patterns and artwork and is perhaps the most interesting feature of the mosque – embedded within the rubble periphery of the courtyard, the gateway possesses the flowing curves and arches that were a trademark of Mughal architecture, though like the rest of the artwork these too appear understated. The gateway opens to a wide staircase that leads up to the mosque’s courtyard; a peep back reveals stairs leading from the courtyard to the gateway’s roof level – one wonders how far one can see after climbing atop this small structure – not very far if you ask me. 

Entrance gateway - Modest

The mosque’s bulbous domes and slender minarets are hidden from view by a curtain of canopy – trees that decided to outgrow the structure they were supposed to beautify. It’s prayer time, about a dozen or so men are gathered in the mosque’s interiors listening to the sermons being delivered by an Imam (priest) – darkness covers every face, there is not a light in the mosque though one can make out the cheerfully painted interiors in the light of the setting sun. I would have loved to see some more but the Imam asked me (rather roughly) to step out of the mosque even though I wasn't inconveniencing the devotees in any way - how was I to know that it would be prayer time and you would take offense even if someone comes and stands in the end just so s/he can admire the mosque?? The interior artwork has disappeared, long buried under thick coats of paint; a cobwebbed fan looks desolately from behind the central arch, perhaps a beautiful handcrafted lamp hung in its place once. Rolled up prayer mats stand against each arch wall; one notices that the courtyard floor has flower-shaped depressions meant as ornamentation along its entire surface. A plaque above the central arched entrance is inscribed with details of the mosque’s construction – it was commissioned by Mumtaz Mahal Sahiba Qudsia Begum and its building was overseen by Nawab Bahadur Javed Khan, the mother and head eunuch respectively of Badshah Ghazi Ahmed Shah Bahadur (reigned AD 1748-54). Qudsia Begum (aka Udham Bai) was once a dancer – she must have been pretty good at her art because the Emperor Muhammad Shah (ruled AD 1719-48) decided to marry her and placed in her tender hands a contingent of 50,000 armed soldiers. The Queen slowly became so influential that she began to dictate the affairs of the state; she became one of the royal administrators when her son succeeded her husband – apparently Ahmed Shah was illiterate in the arts and learning and untaught in military and martial training (illiterate, a prince? Surprising, right?). 

Close up - The only view unimpeded by the tree line

The mosque, completed in the year 1750-51 towards the fag end of the once mighty empire, adds to the list of buildings the Begum patronized (another is the Qudsia Bagh mosque-garden complex in Kashmere Gate area), though am yet to learn why she is considered a patron of arts and architecture if she commissioned only two buildings and her own son was never educated in arts and learning – a clear example of overstated royalty, and of course, poor parenting!! The mosque’s onion domes were once gilded with copper and that gave it its glistening golden tint and hence the name – the copper was replaced with red sandstone facing when the last Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah “Zafar” II had the mosque repaired in the year 1852. Not that his devotion helped him – he was the Emperor of a finished empire, wisp of an already extinguished fire, lording from a fortress that had become a skeleton of its former glory over a territory that was his only in name – he was removed from even the nominal position merely five years after he had the mosque repaired, tried for war crimes perpetrated against the British during the First War of Independence/Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 and exiled to Rangoon (Burma/Myanmar). Strange is the tide of life – a dancer becomes an Empress, an Emperor becomes a prisoner!! 

For details and photographs of the Sunehri Masjid on Chandni Chowk street, refer - Pixelated Memories - Sunehri Masjid

Location: Near Delhi Gate of Red Fort
Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk
How to reach: Buses plying from different parts of the city for Red Fort/Delhi Gate (of Shahjanabad)/Mori Gate will drop you opposite Red Fort. Walk towards the Delhi Gate of Red Fort; Sunehri Masjid is near the parking lot.
Open: Sunrise to sunset
Entrance fees: Nil
Photography/Video charges: Nil
Time required for sightseeing: 20 min
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Jama Masjid
2. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort
3. Pixelated Memories - Sunehri Masjid (Chandni Chowk street)

Chatta Chowk, Red Fort, New Delhi

Among the various rules that a Mughal prince or noble was supposed to abide by as mentioned in the medieval text Mirzanama (“Code of the Gentleman”, a treatise on social etiquettes), is “A noble should never haggle with a merchant over the price of an article & pay whatever the latter demands immediately”. The merchants at Chatta Chowk Bazaar, the in-house (or should I say "in-fort") market commissioned by the Mughal emperor Shahjahan (ruled AD 1638-58) as part of his architecturally notable Red Fort in Delhi, must have made a lot from the trades they plied.

Led to by the gigantic Lahore Gate that forms the chief entrance to the fort, the Chatta Chowk is a long aisle, about 70 metre long, featuring an arched ceiling & lined with shops selling exquisite handicrafts & souvenirs. Also known as Meena Bazaar & Bazaar-i-Musaqqaf (“covered bazaar”), the bazaar’s design was implemented in the Red Fort for the first time in India. The story of its construction is also very interesting. One fine day, impressed by the fortresses in Persia & Lahore which featured a bazaar for the convenience of the ladies of the royal harem, Shahjahan decided to emulate the same in his fortress being constructed in Delhi. Perhaps Shahjahan also took into consideration Delhi’s hot climate which would have definitely impeded the royal family’s shopping trips to the bazaar that was slowly coming up along the Chandni Chowk street being designed by Shahjahan’s daughter Jahanara Begum. He called Mukarmat Khan, the man overseeing the fortress’ construction & ordered him to have his will done. Such were the skills of Mukarmat Khan that even Shahjahan was blown away by the bazaar’s symmetry, magnitude & subtle grace when he first set foot in it after its construction.

The finest of all bazaars

Brilliantly covered with paint & stucco, exquisitely carved with floral patterns & Quranic inscriptions, the Bazaar was so striking that the European traveller James Fergusson describes it as “the noblest entrance known to any existing palace”. The vaulted bazaar also maintains the temperature at a bearable level compared to the other structures that seem to be ablaze in the Delhi heat. Shahjahan had Makrmat Khan build the bazaar right at the beginning of the fort complex to show off his lavish lifestyle & a flair for pleasures. As soon as a visitor enters the fort, he enters the bazaar & then the famed Naubat Khana whose red sandstone walls were covered with gold (refer Pixelated Memories - Naubat Khana). On both sides the bazaar is lined with 32 cells on both its ground floor & first floor. The ground floor cells were actually divided into two – the outer room was used to display wares & entertain customers, while the room on the back was the artist’s workshop & storeroom. The upper rooms were perhaps the artist’s house or his office where he undertook all his transactions & deals. Soon the shops at the Chatta Chowk were filled filled with all types of lavish items – precious stones, fine rugs & carpets, tapestries, ornate swords & daggers, luxurious silks, gold & silver ornaments, intricate wood work, splendid ivory items & exotic spices. Shahjahan took pride in the fact that for the exclusive use of his family, precious items such as rare spices, saffron & musk were available in this bazaar only in the whole of Delhi.

The Emperor's view

In the center of the arcade is an octagonal open space about 9 metres in diameter & christened as the Chattar Manzil which provides ventilation to the shops,. The octagonal court was finely plastered & painted. Sadly all of it is gone now. At one time, the bazaar also housed many tea shops where the nobles & generals would get together & share a warm cuppa under the watchful eyes of soldiers, free from all their worries since the fortress was the safest place in the entire city. Here they would discuss wars, administrative measures & gossip over the price of a horse or a fine dagger. After the Battle of 1857, the British took over the fort complex & like most of the structures within it, converted the Chatta Chowk also into a soldier’s barracks, which further led to a loss of its fine appearance. Later the British started giving these shops on rent. The Indian Army & the Archaeological Survey of India (A.S.I.) followed in the same tradition after the British vacated the country.

Chattar Manzil

Efforts are underway to restore the bazaar to its original look & add the same features that existed in the time of Shahjahan. These would include paint & plaster work for the entire bazaar, stucco work for the arches, lowering the level of the road that runs through the arcade & wooden doors for the shops. Today one can get amazing wooden masks from Kashmir, stone & wood idols of Hindu Gods & Goddesses, hand-painted cards & paintings, replicas of manuscripts, silver & imitation jewellery, traditional wallets, bags & purses and silk at the Chatta Chowk. Most of the merchants claim to be the direct descendants of the artists who worked for the Mughals. However the shops nowadays cater mostly to foreign tourists as the merchants quote exorbitant prices for their wares which the Indian visitors won’t pay. Sadly, we aren’t taught the Mirzanama anymore!!

Location: Red Fort, New Delhi
Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk Station
Open: All days except Monday
Timings: 10 am - 4 pm
Entrance Fee: Rs. 10 (Indian), Rs. 250 (Foreigners)
Photography Charges: Nil (Rs. 25 for video filming)
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Naubat Khana, Red Fort
2. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort

Red Fort Baoli, New Delhi

Baolis or step-wells were constructed throughout India during medieval times for the purposes of pleasure as well as daily use. They were used as a retreat from the sweltering heat during summers & as a communal gathering point all year around. The baolis were an escape from the city’s heat & noise, & were a magical place for the inhabitants for whom the baoli functioned both as a religious space & a congregation point. There is at least one baoli in each of the medieval settlement of Delhi, many boast more than one. There is one even located in the busy marketplace we refer to as Connaught Place!!

It is therefore no wonder that the Mughal emperor Shahjahan, during the course of construction of his magnificent Red Fort, renovated & elaborately redesigned the Tughlaq-era baoli that pre-existed at the site of the fort complex. The Tughlaqs ruled over Delhi from AD 1320-1414, more than 200 years before Shahjahan ascended the throne. Before the construction of the Red Fort, another fortress called Salimgarh existed at that particular site (Shahjahan integrated Salimgarh with Red Fort & used it for housing his troops & prisoners), & some historians concede that the baoli might have also been used by the inhabitants of Salimgarh. Shahjahan, being a skilled architect-builder, worked on the baoli & turned it into a unique specimen of architecture serving both form & function.

Symmetrical!!

The baoli is locked for public entry (perhaps because of the danger of falling down the deep reservoir is magnified when the number of visitors is increased, also because the place is said to be heavily infested with snakes, though we did not spot any) – I had the opportunity of exploring the elegant step-well when the photography club DHPC obtained permission to conduct a photo walk to the baoli.

Deep!!

Unlike other baolis that have steps going down to the water-level, this large baoli has two perpendicular staircases descending down. At the intersection is a circular pit built within an octagonal pit which is further built within a large square tank. The circular pit holds the water.

Slippery!!

The steps go deep & are on each side lined by small chambers. The British, who became the white rulers of India after replacing the Mughals, occupied the fort & felt that they had no need for these chambers & filled up many of the arched-entrances with bricks, grilles & padlocks & converted the chambers into jail rooms. Officers P.K. Sehgal, Shah Nawaz Khan & G.S. Dhillon - the heroes of the Indian National Army (INA) that Subhash Chandra Bose instituted for freedom struggle were incarcerated here in 1945-46 during the course of their trial. The British even constructed a toilet for the prisoners within the baoli itself, it was dismantled along with other unflattering additions after the Archaeological Survey (A.S.I) took over the control of the baoli in the year 2002.

Picturesque!!

Unlike the exteriors, the interiors of the chambers are plastered & have started crumbling – at many places they show signs of damp-induced decay. From these chambers one can move into the passageways that lead to another side of the baoli & view the water reservoir – deep, dark & dank – I was scared out of my wits looking down the reservoir, afraid that the stone ledge underneath my feet will give way (I don’t know how to swim!!).

The baoli, built of Delhi quartzite stone, is relatively well-maintained, though it was being used as a dump yard till the year 2005 since the fort was under Indian Army occupation then. Although the garbage & the vegetation that hid the baoli from view are now gone, one can still spot cobwebs lining the grilles & the arches – however nobody visits the place anymore & this one concession can be made to the fort complex’s caretakers.

& artsy!!

Interestingly, this is the only baoli in Delhi where you can hear the sound of water trickling down – the water emerging from the ground is lifted up & allowed to fall back into the reservoir & also flow into the tank. Such was the ingenuity of the Indian architects at a time when taps & pumps were not even thought of!!

Emerging out, I walked over the ledges that exist high above the periphery of the tank. A scary but inspiring experience – the view down sent a shiver down my spine (I guess I am now afraid of heights too!!), but made me reflect upon the beauty of the structures that hide in plain view even in the most visited spots in Delhi.

I walk alone..

A 2002 Times of India report noted that the baoli would be converted into a tourist-cum-cultural spot, honoring the heroes of the INA & the freedom struggle (refer Times of India Article dated Oct 13, 2002) – it has been more than 10 years since that report was published, but the baoli still remains out of bounds for visitors. I sure hope the authorities can open the structure for the visitors to enjoy, of course after adding precautionary measures such as grilles next to the reservoir. Why keep the city’s heritage from its own people??

Location: Red Fort Complex
Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk Station
Open: The complex is open on all days except Monday, however special permission is required to enter the Baoli.
Timings: 10 am - 4 pm
Entrance Fee: Rs. 10 (Indian), Rs. 250 (Foreigners)
Photography Charges: Nil (Rs. 25 for video filming)

Relevant Links - 

1. Pixelated Memories - Agrasen ki Baoli
2. Pixelated Memories - Connaught Place
3. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort

Delhi Gate, New Delhi

Suppose you are walking down a street flanked by a bustling marketplace on both sides - the shops stock everything - clothes & accessories, electrical instruments & articles that have become a commonplace in the modern world. The street is in fact a modern one, wide, filled with cars & low-floor buses, there are banks, hospitals & ATMs jostling for space with mosques & Victorian buildings. All of a sudden you come across a medieval structure with arches & bastions, standing in the middle of a traffic square & looking down upon the passer-bys with an impertinent gaze. What would be your reaction??

Mine was literally "Oh Delhi!". The city never ceases to surprise me, every time I think I have covered an entire area & there isn't much left to document, a new structure pops up out of nowhere. So here I was in Shahjanabad (now referred to as Old Delhi), the city that the Mughal emperor Shahjahan (ruled AD 1628-58) established in the year 1638 - Shahjahan had intended the city to be a replica of paradise, had commissioned huge mansions for his nobles & generals, built wide-tree lined avenues, created canals & public squares. But as the city's population increased, magnified by the influx of migrants from Pakistan after the country was divided, Shahjanabad turned into cramped quarters, the mansions were divided into smaller houses, the streets were taken over by shops & flea markets, the ancient structures have all but disappeared. Just a few of them survive not being encroached upon - the Delhi Gate that now stood before me was one of them.

Shahjanabad was enclosed by a high rubble wall as a protection against foreign invaders. The strong wall was interrupted by 14 large, square gates & several smaller ones. Very few of these gates & wall portions have survived the ravages of time & human maltreatment - most of them were destroyed during the British bombardment of the city during the 1857 revolution. The larger gates were named after the cities they faced - the Delhi Gate faced the older citadels of Delhi that existed before Shahjahan built his capital.

The square-shaped, bastion guarded gate is majestically located on one of the major streets of Shahjanabad/Old Delhi, at the beginning of Daryaganj Street (literally “River Facing Avenue”). Close by exists a small portion of Shahjanabad's wall - there is even a Martello Tower that the British added for defense after retaking the city. Not to be confused with the Delhi Gate of Red Fort nearby, this was the city gate, used to enter the city & not the fort. A road next to this gate leads to Red Fort. These aren't ordinary gates, to be opened up one way or the other, these gates are large, monumental structures, built of stone & rubble, with high walls, arches & bastions. Soldiers kept guard over these gates & made sure no hostile element entered within the city limits.

The Delhi Gate

The gate, built with a combination of locally available stone & red sandstone, is now kept locked & a guard stands on duty inside it in order to prevent any encroachment by hawkers or any illegal activity inside its premises. The guard would open the gate if you request him & even tell you about the historical importance of the place & the fact that over the years, the number of enthusiasts wishing to enter the gate has been increasing. The high arches seem inviting & yet cleverly conceal all their secrets from onlookers. The arched doors are large enough to permit the emperor’s convoy of horses & palanquins to pass through without any difficulty during his royal procession to the nearby located Jama Masjid & other parts of the empire. The outside walls have stone carvings & are embossed with geometrical designs & medallions.

The front view

Once inside, you notice that the place is being used to store large concrete slabs & stacks of building material along one of its arched inner sides. I saw mongooses running amok in the interior. The walls had once been plastered & one can still see the remnants of geometrical patterns amidst the flaking plaster in the niches.

The inside view

The 2 bastions along the side of the gate stand tall, keeping an eye all around with their numerous arrow slits. As a whole the structure looms desolately over its surroundings, higher than other buildings & shops nearby, with a small unkempt garden for company behind it. The garden is now used as a cricket ground by local kids, which in my opinion is a good thing in today’s playground-starved Delhi localities. Interestingly enough, the playground is said to be haunted!! Legend has it that a British soldier ("Sipahi"/"Tommy" - take your pick) was in love with a local girl & wanted to spend the rest of his natural life with her. However he later found out that the girl was soon going to be married - in a fit of rage & desperation he shot the girl & himself too. It has been claimed that the Peepal tree (Ficus religiosa - Sacred fig) is now haunted by a Chudail & people can hear her heart-rending screams at night (A chudail is the Indian version of a banshee - she has a dreadful appearance with her feet turned towards the back, is said to appear to young men as a pretty maiden & then drains their blood & virility). The Tommy is also spotted at times - he comes walking out of the gate with his head in his hands & then walks through the Daryaganj street. Now the atheist in me loves these stories - why does the banshee only haunt that certain tree? How come the Tommy carries his head in his arms - he shot himself, he wasn't beheaded. & why isn't entire Daryaganj considered haunted since the Tommy walks past the entire area. People & their silly stories!!

The side view

Entry to the upper floors is prohibited & the doors are now grilled & locked. No amount of persuasion moves the guard to open the grille.

This impressive structure is now being maintained by A.S.I. If you ever happen to visit this structure on Sunday, do pay a visit to the Sunday Book Bazaar which is one of the major attractions of Daryaganj, drawing hordes of people from different parts of the city in search of their literary fill (refer Pixelated Memories - Daryaganj Sunday Book Market).

The "How-can-it-be-haunted??" view

6 months after this post was published - The Govt. has become strict with its orders, entry to the gate premises is locked. The guard refuses to let you enter even if you tell him you have been inside & you write for the city. Another monument taken away from the people. Sad!

Location: Daryaganj, Chandni Chowk
Open: All days, Sunrise to Sunset.
Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk Metro Station
How to reach: As you exit the metro station, walk straight till you reach a temple, a small street near the temple exits to the main Chandni Chowk Street (just follow the crowd, they would enter a very narrow lane). On this street, on one side, you can see the large Red Fort looming, walk till there & take a bus from near the Fort to Delhi Gate. Alternately, buses ply to Delhi Gate from different parts of the city, just climb on those going to Old Delhi (Purani Delhi)
Entrance Charges: Nil
Photography/Video Charges: Nil
Time required for sightseeing: 20 minutes
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Daryaganj Sunday Book Market
2. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort

Sunehri Masjid (Chandni Chowk), New Delhi

In AD 1739, the Persian emperor Nadir Shah invaded India in order to plunder the magnificent wealth of the floundering Mughal Empire. Although the Mughal army was crushed & all forts & public utilities handed over to the invading army by the then emperor Muhammad Shah, in the absence of proper governance & policing & fuelled by several rumours regarding his assassination, Nadir Shah faced a rioting by the local population of Old Delhi/Shahjanabad. Several of his soldiers were killed, many mutilated. As retaliation, he ordered qatle-aam (massacre) of the local citizens on March 22, 1739 & within a spell of 6 hours his soldiers slaughtered a staggering 20,000 men, women & children in the city. It is unbelievable that such a large population can be killed within such a short duration. However, several of the eye-witness accounts & contemporary chronicles affirm the aforesaid figures. The Tazkira, an account by Anand Ram Mukhlis, recounts the horrible day “Here and there some opposition was offered, but in most places people were butchered unrelentingly The Persians laid violent hands on everything & everybody. For a long time, streets remained strewn with corpses, as the walks of a garden with dead leaves & flowers. The town was reduced to ashes.”

This part of history becomes important in the context of the aptly named Sunehri Masjid ("Golden Mosque"), located on the central Chandni Chowk street of Old Delhi as it was from the ramparts of this mosque that Nadir Shah displayed his unsheathed sword as a signal to commence the slaughter & witnessed the entire scene unfold in the next 6 hours. Not to be confused with another mosque of the same name located near the Delhi Gate of Red Fort (refer Pixelated Memories - Red Fort), this beautiful mosque was constructed by Roshan-ud-daula, a Mughal nobleman during the reign of Muhammad Shah, in the year 1721.

The mosque as seen from the roof of Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib

Situated right next to Gurudwara Sis Ganj, the mosque, seldom visited now, presents a picture of loneliness. Its three large, grey-painted wooden doors remain locked most of the time & are opened only at the time of Namaaz. The 3 golden domes that surmount the mosque have rusted & become blackened over the time. The arches around the doors are decorated with floral plaster work & the walls appear to be whitewashed recently. However that too was done carelessly & one notices the irregularities on the surface of the wall. The white pillars too are decorated with green floral symbols near the base. Niches in the walls contain prayer books & oil lamps. Cheap clocks cover the wall. The eaves ("chajja") are marked by profuse metal latticework ("jali")

Minimalistic ornamentation

A railing interspersed with miniature domes marks the courtyard. In sharp contrast to the glistening domes of Sis Ganj, the domes of this mosque, with their broken, tilted finials lie in a sorry state. Reached by climbing a small flight of narrow stairs, the mosque lies forgotten & uncared for despite its impeccable history. Lacking the large courtyards & gardens & overshadowed by the surrounding buildings, the mosque is easily ignored & mistaken to be a part of the Sis Ganj complex, yet stands silent witness to events of the past, mostly gory, & has seen the lanes & by lanes of Old Delhi getting choked in time & retaining their look & structure since time immemorial. I too did not know it was an altogether different structure until I read about it while studying Delhi’s history.

A picture of contrasts - The miniature dome of the mosque vs. the glistening domes of the gurudwara

As I roamed around in the heated up marble courtyard of the mosque, a caretaker arrived, stunned to see a visitor, salaamed me & sat in a corner next to the stairs leading to the roof. A lady looked down from the roof & shrank back on seeing me. The caretaker too left in order to see her upstairs. Maybe they were related. A wife or a sister perhaps. Left alone in the quiet atmosphere of the mosque, the shouts & car honks from the nearby heavily-congested Bhai Mati Das Chowk drowned by the silence of this place, I just sat on one of the prayer rugs to observe the sparsely decorated arches (& also to escape the fiercely heated up marble floor - one is required to take off their footwear near the staircase one climbed up from). Downstairs, business went on as usual for the vendors selling flowers, reading materials & eatables.

The relatively more elaborate side arch

Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk Station
Open: All days, Sunrise to Sunset
Entrance Fee: Nil
Photography/Video Charges: Nil
How to reach: As you exit the metro station, walk straight till you reach a temple, a small street near the temple exits to the Chandni Chowk Street (just follow the crowd, they would enter a very narrow lane). Sunehri Masjid is located on the street towards the left of the narrow lane you just exited, next to Gurudwara Sis Ganj.
Time required for sight seeing: 30 minutes
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib
2. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort

Parathe wali Gali, New Delhi

Tucked in the heart of Delhi in the narrow, twisting and turning lanes and by-lanes of the old city is another such dark, decrepit lane (Does it even qualify to be called a lane? There are no more than 5-6 shops set on either side of an unbelievably crowded, narrow passageway!), virtually indiscernible from the others except for the fact that it entirely consists of shops selling “paratha/paranthas” (Indian bread stuffed with different varieties of fillings). Aptly named as the "Gali Parathe/Paranthe wali" or “Street of the Paratha sellers” ("gali" is the Hindi equivalent of "street"), it is one of the most famous culinary destinations in the city, glorified by glowing mentions, appearances and portrayals in numerous TV serials, Bollywood movies and newspaper travel columns. Located near the famed Gurudwara Sisganj Sahib, the lane is accessed from a turning dotted by shops selling jalebis (savory fritter prepared by soaking deep-fried wheat flour batter into sugar syrup), sarees and other traditional female attires. The first impression that one experiences is that of a very congested pathway full of pedestrians, cyclists, vendors and day laborers carrying large bundles of what-nots on their heads and cycles. However as one moves in a few meters, small eateries come into view and one notices the street to also be thoroughly crowded with incredibly slowly slithering lines of patrons queuing up outside these eateries and awaiting their turn. These are the renowned Paratha shops whose fame far exceeds their appearance! Even though I am no food critic, having been to the place several times in the past year alone and having tried several of their parathas, I firmly believe that the place is overhyped and regular parathas – the ones stuffed with potatoes, cottage cheese, lentils, radish and cauliflower – are more sumptuous when cooked at homes by Indian wives and mothers. Though all the parathas here are deep-fried and cholesterol-heavy, am yet to try the exotic, super-fattening specialty parathas such as those stuffed with jaggery, khurchan (the dry, burnt sugary cream left over following milk condensation) and cashew-almonds, but will do so whenever next I'm around Chandni Chowk area, which would be soon hopefully. My personal favorite is the lemon paratha, filled with lemon juice and rinds along with some kind of filling that imparts it a sour flavor. My sister likes the one stuffed with papad (fried, chips-like accompaniment to be had with simple home-cooked meals). The shops here serve more than 30 varieties of parathas and literally everyone can find a favorite or two from such a long list. Eaten with chilled lassi (buttermilk) or soft drinks, these parathas remind one of home. Moreover, priced at Rs 35-50, they aren’t very costly either, especially when compared to expensive restaurants like “More Than Parathas”. The place, with its cheap parathas resembling large dumplings and fried in ghee (clarified butter), is often touted as a gourmet heaven by many of my vegetarian friends. Added bonus – all complementary side dishes such as helpings of bland potato-peas curry, sweet banana-tamarind chutney, tangy mint chutney and spicy radish-chili pickle are provided by the shops free of cost and one can ask for unlimited refills. The downside is that one has to order parathas in pairs, so if you have space for only one paratha, you either buy two, or don’t buy at all (or order two for two people in a single plate!).

Variety!

The considerably old shops, now being run by sixth generation descendants, still employ the same traditional methods of cooking which have been passed down from one generation to next since late 19th-century when they were set up. Originally, this area was known as “Chota Dariba” (“Street of the Silver Jewelers”) and was destroyed by infuriated British administrators following the Mutiny of May 1857. Several years later, when the Paratha shops started doing a flourishing business, the name “Parathe wali Gali” stuck. All the shops here are categorically vegetarian and hire upper-caste Hindu cooks; also prohibited is the use of onions and garlic since these are considered unconsumable by “pure” Hindus because of their aphrodisiacal properties. History dictates that all the parantha shops in the narrow lane are owned by members of the same family who decided to withdraw their shares from the family business because of internal feuds and set up their individual eateries. The street saw unparalleled violence during the Hindu-Sikh riots of 1984 and was incinerated in its entirety – of the one score shops, only six were rebuilt and reopened (the rest left the business and took up other professions elsewhere) to serve mouthwatering parathas, and even of these only three survive now catering to a clientele originating from nearly every corner of the globe and of all age groups, genders, outlooks, religious and sectarian differences, financial and social statuses and belief systems.

The oldest

At the shop entrance, the cook sits sifting through the plethora of ingredients at his disposal – radish, potatoes, carrots, peas, lemon rinds, bananas, cauliflowers and chilies form colorful mounds; cashews, almonds, khurchan are kept in small square containers, to be picked and stuffed in the flour, which is then shallow-fried in cast iron pans. The process is suggestive of making “poori” (deep-fried Indian bread), except here the dough is much thicker and stuffed with the fillings, and this is the secret behind the unique taste of the parathas here – my Dad often reminiscences that he had similar, but far more delectable, parathas as a child growing up in different districts of Uttar Pradesh. The cooking process has remained the same from the time the shops were opened up in late 1870s. The aroma and sight of the parathas being cooked is enough to make one feel ravenous and eager to find a seat. My first encounter with the flavors of this renowned street was at the humble shop of Pandit Kanhaiya Lal Durga Prasad (established 1875), said to be the oldest surviving shop in the business (others are Pandit Baburam Devidayal and Pandit Dayanand Shivcharan). Fascinatingly, framed black and white photographs hang along the walls displaying eminent personalities – from Bollywood stars to powerful politicians and even Prime Ministers – who have visited these shops for the mouthwatering food in the past. It makes one slide back in the past and reflect upon the incredible history of these shops that have been serving parathas to rich and poor and catering to millions of citizens for nearly 150 years. Every shop has a large signboard indicating the owner’s name and the year of establishment; another board details the names and prices of parathas available in Hindi as well as English (the clientele includes hordes of foreigners who flock to Chandni Chowk and nearby Red Fort, the pinnacle of Mughal architecture, refer Pixelated Memories - Red Fort complex). The only difference between 19th-century and the present that this place, otherwise stuck in that medieval time frame, has witnessed is that now people prefer soft drinks and mineral water over lassi (buttermilk) traditionally served in “kulhar” (earthenware containers). Disappointingly, the waiters are not courteous and one often has to shout at them several times to pay heed and list the order. Of course, the number of customers bee lining outside the shops make them believe they can behave as their wont. More often than not, one has to wait at least 20 minute in the queue for the turn to get inside and savor the parathas – although, for me the wait has almost always been worthless since I don’t find the parathas here irresistible nor am I a very big fan of vegetarian fare.

The Paratha business

A lot of people I know consider Parathe wali Gali unhygienic, congested and unpleasant, preferring instead to gobble at McDonalds, Giani’s or other numerous restaurants that dot Chandni Chowk. But even though I myself don’t enjoy having parathas here, there really isn’t any point of coming to Old Delhi if one isn’t going to gorge on the sumptuous street food that these historic lanes are famed for. McD's or KFC's can be eaten at later too, right? After parathas, one can run off for a serving of Dahi Bhalla (gram-flour doughnuts, deep fried and served with lots of sweet curd and chutneys), Papri Chaat (crisp fried dough wafers, again served with sweet curd and chutneys), Halwa (sweet, extremely oily confectioneries) of several types and Jalebi (savory fritter prepared by soaking deep-fried wheat flour batter into sugar syrup). And if like me, you can have lunch after lunch, there is always Karim’s and the numerous smaller eateries lining the Matia Mahal/Gali Kebabiyan area that serve traditional non-vegetarian dishes like Biryani and Nihari. My mouth is already watering and stomach groaning with hunger, am off to have some more street food! Guess there’s another article coming soon!

(Update March, 2014) Finally tried the sweet khurchan paratha on a Delhi Instagramers Guild photowalk to Chandni Chowk. Disappointed yet again.

Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk
Nearest Bus stop: Red Fort
How to reach: As you exit the metro station, walk straight till you reach a temple. A small street besides the temple exits to the main Chandni Chowk Street (just follow the crowd, they would enter a very narrow lane). Gali Parathe wali is located just across the main street. Walk from Red Fort if coming by bus/auto.
Open: Everyday, 9 am–11 pm
Photography/Video Charges: Nil
Cost: Rs 200 for two (Parathas at Rs 35-50 each (can only be ordered in even numbers per plate), Lassi at Rs 25/glass).

Other monuments/landmarks located in the neighborhood - 

1. Pixelated Memories - Jama Masjid
2. Pixelated Memories - Gurudwara Sisganj Sahib
3. Pixelated Memories - Red Fort complex
4. Pixelated Memories - Sunehri Masjid
5. Pixelated Memories - Sunehri Masjid (adjacent Red Fort)

Suggested reading - Tribuneindia.com - Article "Frozen paranthas posing a challenge to Paranthewali Gali fare" (dated Nov 10, 2012) by K.R.N. Swamy

Razia Sultan's Grave, New Delhi

Although Delhi as a whole is a heritage city, filled with tombs, forts & citadels of kingdoms & dynasties long gone by, the area known as Shahjanabad (Old Delhi) is brimming with such treasures. The narrow lanes, teeming with crowds are filled with heritage & history that is lost from the collective psyche of masses & trodden upon on a regular basis, discovered only to be lost again. The twisting & turning roads & paths lead to some monuments & structures, ignored by authorities, known only to residents & some select few who can feel the aura of romance & mystery surrounding them, & once you see these structures you are lost uncomprehending in their beauty & craftsmanship of those who built it. However there is one such place in Shahjanabad that doesn’t invoke any feelings of beauty or astonishment, but of pity. The grave of Empress Razia Sultan is located in center of an area called Bulbuli Khana/Pahari Bhojla & is a difficult find for those who are not familiar with these roads & their sudden curves that may either end nowhere or bring you back to your starting point. When I had decided to go see the grave of the only woman ruler of India (in fact the entire Asia) I did not even know where to start looking for it. The details on Wikipedia about the location of the tomb are incomplete & other pages I searched for are also as inaccurate. Google maps show the location of the grave only 700m from Jama Masjid (refer Pixelated Memories - Jama Masjid), however as I was standing next to Jama Masjid & trying to flag down rickshaws to take me to Razia’s grave & asking the local shopkeepers & vendors for its location, I realised even the people here are not sure there is some grave or tomb whatsoever built for some lady called Razia. Illiteracy levels remaining very high in this part of Delhi, people did not even know that India was once ruled by a woman other than Indira Gandhi. This post would be my tribute to this forgotten empress & direct all fellow wanderers to her grave’s location.

These aren't just anonymous graves!!

First, some details about Razia - She was the daughter of Shams-ud-din Iltutmish (ruled AD 1211-36) who belonged to the Slave Dynasty that was established to administer almost the entire country with Delhi as its capital by Qutub-ud-din Aibak. When Iltutmish was on his deathbed, he faced a unique dilemma - his sons were unworthy of the power that would come with being the Sultan of India & unfit for ruling such a vast country. As a consequence, he named his daughter Razia as his heir apparent. However after his death, the nobles, averse to being dictated by a woman, put his eldest son Rukn-ud-din Feroz Shah on the throne. But as Iltutmish had predicted, Rukn-ud-din neglected the royal business altogether & spent his time & energy satisfying his sexual urges. Rukn-ud-din's wily old mother & Iltutmish's widow, Shah Turkan, ran the whole show. Frustrated with the new Sultan, the population pressurized the nobles to install Razia as the Empress. She ruled with an iron hand, consolidating the empire & adding more strongholds through wars & treaties. She checked the noble’s powers & openly disregarded all religious customs & beliefs of that time, her support for her Hindu subjects against state oppression & taxation made her a thorn in the Turkish nobility’s side. Though supported by the army & general citizenry, this brave lady was hated by her brothers & the nobility, the former thought she had usurped the kingdom from them, while the later didn’t want to take orders from a woman. She fell in love with a slave named Jamal-ud-din Yaqut & was openly defiant of the court traditions in consorting with him. In AD 1240, at the end of her fourth year of reign, Malik Altunia, the governor of Bhatinda (Punjab), following in the tradition of other provincial governors revolted against Razia. She marched against Altunia with her trusted confidant Yaqut, but Yaqut was murdered by Altunia's men & Razia herself imprisoned. Her brother Bahram Shah was put on the throne of Delhi. Seeing no way out of the quagmire but one, Razia offered to marry Altunia if he supported her against her brothers. Altunia agreed to the pact & as a husband fought beside her against her brothers. They marched against Bahram Shah, but were deserted by their supporters. The couple was chased & killed by Bahram's men near Kaithal (Haryana). Some accounts say she escaped the scene with her husband & moved from place to place in despair. As a result of this ambiguity in accounts, no one is sure as to what fate Razia met finally. Three spots have emerged as contenders to Razia’s final resting place. The first is Bulbuli Khana/Pahari Bhojla in Old Delhi where many believe she was laid to rest by her brother. However many scholars argue she may be buried after being looted & decapitated by Jats in Siwan in Kaithal & a third set of scholars believe she, along with Yaqut, was killed by her brother’s henchmen & buried in Tonks, Rajasthan. Ironically, Bahram was later dethroned for being a weak ruler.

The only sign that this is an ASI-protected monument

Since I had decided to visit all three sites starting with the one in Old Delhi first, here I was standing outside Jama Masjid with a copy of Google Map to the grave. However either the rickshaw pullers did not know the way to the place, or if any did, demanded exorbitant amounts of money. Asking from shop to shop if there was any shortcut or some other route, I had lost all hope after drawing a blank everywhere. Finally a shopkeeper told me that Razia’s grave was located very near his residence. He advised me to take a rickshaw to Pahari Bhojla & get down there & take a left from the first meat shop I encountered. In the lane I was supposed to ask my way to Bulbuli Khana which was some distance away & from there ask for Razia’s grave as everyone there knew about it. The man was kind enough to even call a rickshaw for me & bargain the price. The rickshaw is supposed to charge only Rs 15 from Jama Masjid to Pahari Bhojla per person.

Finding my way from Pahari Bhojla to Bulbuli Khana was easy. However once we had reached Bulbuli Khana, Razia’s grave was again “just” out of sight. Asking for directions from shopkeepers & even passer-by’s I moved from one place to another, until I finally met a shopkeeper with an entire shop of multi-colored beads in different sizes & shapes. His shop was mesmerizing & kept me spellbound for what seemed like an eternity!! When I had difficulty comprehending the complex directions he was explaining (Go straight, turn left from chicken shop, then right, right, left..& so on) he decided to accompany me to the grave. Though I protested that he should not leave his shop like this & tend to it, he brushed them aside saying it was also his duty to help others. Bless his soul, really why are people like him & the first shopkeeper disappearing from Delhi. Criss-crossing our way through the maze of narrow lanes & by-lanes, I had a tough time keeping up with the jovial man. Taking photographs of almost everything that I found unique, we finally reached an extremely narrow street where at max 2 people could walk side-by-side, a small lane that extended from the end of the street led to an iron-grille gate that formed the entrance to Razia’s “tomb”, marked by A.S.I plaques (in Hindi & English). There was no grand domed structure for this tomb, no plaster work, no marble or inlay on any of the graves. In fact the graves, set on a pedestal, l look more like crumbling stone mounds, lying in the open with the sky for roof & enclosed by the walls of houses that surround them. It is said the second grave belongs to Razia’s sister, Shazia, who was killed alongside her. No one is sure which grave belongs to whom. Little is known about Shazia, whose life, unlike her sister’s, remains shrouded in mystery. At first sight, the scene makes one fill with pity & anger, the empress of India’s grave is no different than that of any ordinary wayside person. Unlike the tomb of her father in another part of Delhi (refer Pixelated Memories - Iltutmish's Tomb), Razia's tomb has been ignored throughout time, first by her brothers & relatives, then by subsequent generations of kings & A.S.I after India got independence. But after some time, the place fills you with peaceful vibes, one of the walls facing the graves has been turned into a wall mosque (Qibla). A small make-shift wooden bathroom has been built some 2 meters away from the grave. The neglect, the ignorance is shameful. But it is bliss too. The place is void of tourists, the least visited place of importance in Delhi’s history. In death, as in life, Razia is neglected & uncared for by everyone.

The wall mosque

Spending some time taking photographs & sitting on the mats kept there for the devotees who frequent the mosque, I was there for an hour & except for a lady talking to her boyfriend on phone, no one came to the place. She too left on noticing my presence. Coming back the way I had come, through the narrow lanes & mazes, I realize the A.S.I probably cannot do anything for the place. Shahjanabad is so densely populated that creating tourist facilities & renovation of the graves would be a formidable task. It was difficult for a Delhi resident like me to locate this forgotten place, how & why would tourists come here? But then at least A.S.I could take care of the place, employ a caretaker to clean the place which is now the residence to several pairs of pigeons & rats. Only the wanderers & birds visit this place now. Despair hangs in the air around. A fate not fit for an empress.

Does he know the history of the place??

Nearest Metro Station : Chandni Chowk
How to reach : Take a rickshaw from Jama Masjid to Pahari Bhojla & walk from there to Bulbuli Khana. One can ask directions from the shopkeepers, however it is better to enlist someone for help. The graves are located quite some distance away from Bulbuli Khana.
Open : Everyday, sunrise to sunset
Entrance Fee: Nil
Photography/Video Charges : Nil
Time required for sightseeing : 20 minutes
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Iltutmish's Tomb
2. Pixelated Memories - Jama Masjid

Daryaganj Sunday Book Market, New Delhi

It is not unusual to see school/college students early morning moving around with bags full of books, despite the December chill & foggy conditions. But if you see the same on a Sunday morning, rest assured you have reached the right place for book shopping – The Daryaganj Sunday Book Bazaar. No, the bazaar does not have this grand name, it is just an assortment of traders from many different places in Delhi, getting together on the footpaths of Daryaganj every Sunday, to showcase their wares – predominantly books, but also stamps, coins, amulets, cheap clothes, mechanical & kitchen accessories & stationery. Why were we there, for the books of course.

I want a throne like that!!

Every Sunday the mile-long footpath gets covered with books – thousands of them, millions of them, there are so many books that many a times not getting the space to walk, people walk over them, which is actually quite a pity. & then there are the traders themselves who sit on top of the book piles, handing the customer what s/he needs by picking it out & replacing at the right place.

But not a floor like this!!

There are all types of books available – novels (Chetan Bhagat, Arundhati Roy, J.K. Rowling, V.S. Naipaul, Dostoyevsky, Tagore, Premchand, William Dalrymple - you name it, you get it), memoirs, biographies, quiz books, coffee table books, encyclopaedias, magazines, school & college course books & even entrance exam preparation material – be it IIT, AIEEE, CA, UPSC, Bank or any other of the numerous exams. There are possibilities of one finding books that may not be available in regular book stalls due to them being difficult to order or find.

Since not many people read books these days, & not even half of them know about the market, we, i.e me & my school friend Piyush, were pretty pleased with ourselves for going there one fine Sunday morning. Since it was our first time to the market we decided to reach there by 8am (it opens from 6am-9pm), we were in for quite a shock. The market was filled with people – men, women & children of almost all ages, thronging to the sellers, bargaining like anything. How did they reach there so early?? Shit!! We had to jostle in the crowd to move our way through. & since it was our first time there, we were not even sure how to bargain. The first book-pile we saw, we bought the same set of books – the only difference being that while I bought them for Rs 300, Piyush bought them off for Rs 200. Disappointing!! But it left us all the more cleverer as we went to the next pile. Sadly we did not get to try our newly learnt bargaining skills, since even the thickest & glossiest books were priced at Rs 20-30. Even though most of the books here are either second-hand or pirated editions or second-hand pirated editions, yet the place is a heaven for those who are tired of having to buy overly priced books. . Given the correct skills & practice, a person can bring down the price of a book to as low as 10% of its original price – I was able to buy Amish’s "Secret of the Nagas", available for Rs 300 elsewhere for Rs 20 (yes yes I helped promote piracy, so what?? They should be happy I am reading the book). Although these days most books can be downloaded free of cost from various internet sites, yet it can never match the pleasures of the printed word, & what better place to buy all the bestsellers at throwaway prices. The simple fact is the readership is not going to increase unless book prices are brought down, if piracy helps, then why not?? One does not face issues like missing pages or typographical errors in the book itself – although as it happened to me, the cover stitched to a book may not actually be its own, it may be an altogether different book on the inside – hence, don’t judge a book by its cover!! Two shops later, we had our hands full with books, so heavy that we just wanted to keep them somewhere & sit, but we did not, because the lure of more books kept pulling us to the next pile. Also we had to buy some study material too, you can get college books at dirt cheap prices, though you might have to put in some extra effort to find the latest editions & the correct authors among the bulk of books available. I even bought some stamps off a dealer selling whole stamp books & stamps from countries like the US, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Canada, Brazil, Nepal, China, Nigeria etc. I was not sure how many of those were real, but since each individual stamp was only Rs 1-2, & a whole book was for Rs 50/100, it seemed a sell-out.

Buy some stamps..

Coin sellers too peddle their ware here, so do several cloth-traders & traders of a number of paraphernalia, like screwdrivers, hammers, knives, pans, amulets & even photo albums. The mass of humanity swelled as the day got longer, & at 11 am we had to step down from the footpaths in order to avoid the milling crowds.

Or would you like some coins??

There are more than 150 book sellers here who sell their books on the pavement. They have their fixed spot and they can be seen here every Sunday outside the closed shutter of the shops. You can not only buy second hand books here but can also sell them to the vendors or get them exchanged for other books. Some of the book sellers sell specialized books while many others can be found selling all types of books. The traders, even though they had their hands full, were helpful & guided you to the right shop if you asked or tried to help you find the right book, no matter how long it took. Well, at least most of them, a guy selling IAS study material from Vajiram-Ravi, was quarrelsome with almost all the customers, I still don’t know what got into him. Moreover most of the people involved in this big Indian bazaar – from the customers & traders to the tea-seller manning the corner shop – would pose for you at a single request, which definitely made my day.

Does he know how to read??

Finishing our quota of shopping, we headed to the nearest bus stop, just down the road, right next to the Delhi Gate, one of the surviving gates of the erstwhile Shahjanabad (refer Pixelated Memories - Delhi Gate). It was difficult to pull oneself away from all those books & move on, more so because one knows that so many of those hold the keys to strange worlds & distant lands, a welcome relief from the monotony at the end of the day (or at the beginning or the middle if you are just like me). A date with books on another Sunday then..

Location: Near Delhi Gate of Old Delhi
Nearest Metro Station: Chandni Chowk
How to reach: Once you deboard at Chandni Chowk Metro Station, ask for the Red Fort, you would be guided to a narrow lane that opens straight to Chandni Chowk Road, take a rickshaw to Delhi Gate & walk from there on. (Don’t ask the rickshaw-wallahs to take you to the book market because they would drop you off at a place called Nai Sarak, where permanent book shops are located)
Timings: 6am – 9pm
Photography/Video Charges: Nil
Precautions: It gets pretty crowded so take care of your belongings, Beware of thieves & pickpockets. 

Relevant Links - 

1. Pixelated Memories - Delhi Gate