Mughal Serai, New Delhi

This post is part of series about Qutb Complex, Mehrauli, Delhi. The integrated post about the complex and the structures within can be accessed from here – Pixelated Memories - Qutb Complex.

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Beginning with the victorious invasion led by Zahiruddin Babur in AD 1526 to AD 1857 when they were vanquished and exiled by British East India Company colonialists, the Mughal Empire had been reigning over the vast subcontinent for more than 300 years. During this immense period, the empire reached its zenith under the reign of Emperors Akbar (ruled AD 1556-1605) and Shahjahan (ruled AD 1605-27), but began collapsing under its own unmanageable enormity following the demise of Emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir in AD 1707. Successive rulers after Aurangzeb proved to be weak administrators, squabbling with their own siblings and nobility, often administering the disintegrating empire under fear of the rapidly amassing uncontrollable regional/religious forces (Marathas of Maharashtra, Sikhs of Punjab, Rohillas of western Uttar Pradesh, Jats of Haryana-Rajasthan, Nawabs of Hyderabad and several other fringe enemies), unapologetic bandits, corrupt bureaucracy and unruffled European colonialists and mercenaries. Nonetheless, each of them continued with the tradition of commissioning comfortable inns, consisting of several chambers, gardens and wells, for travelers along arterial highways throughout the country – these buildings, usually reserved for foreign dignitaries, ambassadors, travelling retinues of nobles, military commanders, skilled artists and poets who could afford to shell out some cash, were funded directly by the Emperor or one of his high officials and were equipped with all the material comforts that a person could ask for in medieval India. Travelers who happened to fall in lower economic strata had to make do with accommodations provided by local merchants and headmen.

Entirely forgotten - The late Mughal-era Serai within Qutb complex

The word “Serai”, Hindi for “inn”, is known throughout the country, though not used as often now since the advent of English language to the country’s shores has ensured that travelers, both foreigners and local, request accommodation by referring to it as “guesthouse” or “hotel”. Most of the larger inns which catered to high-ranking diplomats and military officers have totally disappeared and only the smaller ones, either catering to people traveling on shoestring budgets or belonging to a particular community, remain now. When even the ordinary folk of the country go by the saying “Atithi Devo Bhava” ("Guest is God"), keeping the contentment of foreigners and guests above their own, how could the Mughals, mighty and tenacious rulers that they were, have stayed behind??

Peeping through - One of the chattris accessible from a small grassy square towards the back of the decrepit Mughal mosque adjacent the Serai garden

Thus we find several Mughal-era serais scattered throughout the northern part of the country, especially in unheard of villages and townships that once lined the arterial routes and trade highways. A few that still exist in Delhi and are relatively well known are Arab Serai (Built by Emperor Humayun’s widow Hamida Banu Begum in a corner of his sprawling tomb-garden complex to house hundreds of artists she brought with her from Persia to work on the magnificent tomb), Badarpur Serai (once a massive inn on one of the arterial routes connecting Delhi and Central Asia, now only a cluster of ruined chambers and huge gateways survive) and Serai Shahji (a small inn turned into a massive graveyard, famed for its distinctive towers). Many of these, especially the historical ones or those associated with royalty and high aristocracy, were destroyed in their entirety following the 1857 War of Independence in which Indian soldiers, warlords, provincial kings and commonfolk clashed with the organized armies of the East India Co.

The same chattri, as seen from the other side of the enclosure wall

It is sad that even after independence several more have totally disappeared physically as a consequence of direct effects of urbanization and rapidly multiplying population and now exist only as the names that they have lend to colonies, landmarks, bus stops and urban villages – thus there are Neb Serai, Kalu Serai, Katwaria Serai, Sheikh Serai, Serai Kale Khan, Yussuf Serai, Begu Serai, Serai Khwaja etc. The later Mughals too, though distressed by their waning glory and emptying coffers, did not leave a stone upturned to appease state visitors. Perhaps inspired to impress guests by showing off the architectural marvels that previous Sultans and Emperors had commissioned, a serai-garden complex was constructed immediately next to the renowned Qutb complex along a medieval highway that connected Delhi and Gurgaon. No match for the spectacles offered by the Qutb complex, the serai, now reduced only to its enclosure walls interspersed on the bends by a few majestic chattris (domes surmounted on pillars), is a miserable corner set towards the right of the complex’s entrance – in fact, visitors enter Qutb complex via two collinear arched gateways of the Serai that are mirror images of each other and composed of random rubble masonry ornamented with brickwork and plaster patterns conforming to decorative pillars and flourishes. Completing the C-shape and complementing the L-shaped structure of the serai is an equally pathetic and ignored mosque, formally christened as Masjid Tarikh-ul-Islam, but officially known within the administration circles as Mughal Mosque (refer Pixelated Memories - Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque (Mughal Mosque)).

Notice the unique designs! - The second gateway, conjectured to be an organ of the larger Serai complex

No visitors grace the garden, nor does the serai retain any alluring structure that might tempt a visitor to explore further – sensing this, the authorities have locked away the enclosure’s iron gate (accessible past the mosque) and shamelessly decided to utilize the arched alcoves and the corners culminating in chattris as storerooms for iron grilles, cement and other construction material. The square garden hemmed in by these dilapidated walls is still not forsaken though – verdant green grass gives it the appearance of an upmarket lawn; caretakers and gardeners ensure it is swept regularly for leaves and waste left behind by tourists ignorant of its antiquity visiting the rest of the complex. Adjacent to the second of the arched gateways (notice the cusped arches that have been plastered over recently and the tell-tale signs of erstwhile ornamental stucco work that still is visible in some sections) exists a high rectangular platform graced on its western side by a simplistic Bengali-style pavilion possessing three arched entrances and a curved roof very reminiscent of the highly decorated temples that I witness in unheard of villages and suburban areas of Bengal on a regular basis. The platform is dominated by four graves and could have perhaps once functioned as a small mosque – given its proximity to the serai, I wonder if any of the graves belong to the person who commissioned the serai or perhaps its caretaker or his/her family – did they hail from Bengal? What business brought them to Delhi? Though in an unbearably decrepit condition, the Mughal mosque, standing detached from the hordes of astonished visitors and overlooking these minor graves and later structures, has persisted in its will to neither get reduced to a skeleton, nor disappear altogether from the face of earth. A will that the serai seems to have lost a long time ago!

A touch of Bengali architecture

Location: Qutb Complex, Mehrauli, New Delhi
Open: Sunrise to Sunset

Nearest Metro Station: Saket and Qutb Minar stations are equidistant.
How to reach: Taxis, buses and autos can be availed from different parts of the city. Avail a bus/auto from the metro station (approx. 2 km either).
Entrance fees: Indians: Rs 10; Foreigners: Rs 250; Free for children up to 15 years of age.
Photography charges: Nil
Video charges: Rs 25
Time required for sightseeing: 30 min
Facilities available: Wheelchair access, Audio guides.
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Qutb Complex
2. Pixelated Memories - Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque (Mughal Mosque)

Another Serai in Delhi - Pixelated Memories - Arab serai, Humayun's Tomb complex

Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque, Delhi

This post is part of series about Qutb Complex, Mehrauli, Delhi. The integrated post about the complex and the structures within can be accessed from here – Pixelated Memories - Qutb Complex.

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Worth knowing before commencing this article – When the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), via Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act 1958, notified monuments/religious shrines as national and “preserved” heritage, it was agreed upon that those religious structures that were still in use for prayers at the time of notification shall maintain status quo and be administered by the respective religious/denominational authorities (Hindu/Sikh temple managing committees, Wakf Boards etc) while being restored/conserved for future generations by ASI or State archaeology departments. In no circumstances were permissions to be granted in future for prayers to be conducted in structures that were abandoned and/or not in use at the time of notification.

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"Masjidon main maulvi khutbe sunate hi rahe, Mandiron mein brahman ashlok gatey hi rahey
Ik na ik dar par jabeen-i-shouq ghisti hi rahi, Aadamiyat zulm ki chakki mein pisti hi rahi
Rahbari jaari rahi, paighambari jaari rahi, Deen ke parde mein jang-i-zargari jaari rahi"

("The mullah, the pundit and their ceaseless sermon, Man bowed before each but did he learn
The great messiahs came claiming divinity, Their religions ruses for plunder turn by turn")

 – Asraar ul-Haq Majaaz, "Khwaab-i-Sahar" (1939)

Physically, the decrepit Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque stands pretty close to the colossal Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque within Qutb Complex, but figuratively speaking, it is far from it – far in terms of size and grandeur, also far in terms of antiquity, and farthest when it comes to popularity among tourists and history seekers. But undeniably it is most distant with regards to the attention the two adjacent located mosques get from ASI and other competent authorities. Perhaps as a proof of this stepmother treatment, even the sandstone plaque that ASI has put up outside this unassuming structure doesn’t mention its name or elaborate on its features, but passingly makes mention of it and christens it with a vague, very general nomenclature – “Mughal Mosque”. As far as my knowledge goes, Mughal Dynasty officially ruled India from AD 1526-1857 and during the said period not just Emperors and their direct families, but also members of regal lesser family lines, court officials, military generals, affluent dervishes and even powerful slaves, commissioned several mosques throughout the country. Had the higher-ups within ASI deigned to properly classify this particular (and several other) mosque and provided some information about its constuction, it would have been possible to place it somewhere historically and imagine what it must have been like once. But then the ASI would probably squarely delegate the blame on Wakf Board of India under whose care the mosque falls.

Forgotten heritage - Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque

But while ASI might actually forget this medieval structure, the communal forces that forever threaten to rip this country apart never leave a stone upturned to lay their diabolical claim on religious properties of another community. The mosque is in news all of a sudden (again unlike its older sibling, the mighty Quwwat Mosque, which has never been out of news) and that too because of wrong interpretation of historical records and legislative rules. A number of fiercely intolerant Hindu groups such as Vishwa Hindu Parishad (VHP) and Bajrang Dal claim that the Quwwat mosque should be handed over to them since it has been built on the remains of Hindu and Jain temples – they have been trying to gain entry to the mosque in order to place idols of Hindu deities and perform prayers. The said groups have had this inspiration from the fact that pre-existing statues of Hindu deities that once formed the carved pillars and sculptures within these temples were disfigured and used in the construction of Quwwat Mosque. Also, since both the Quwwat and Tarikh mosques exist in immediate vicinity of each other, these groups believe that they are part of the same super-structure and are apparently miffed that the Govt. has allowed Muslims to pray at the Tarikh Mosque and placed it in the hands of the Wakf Board. Now where have we heard that before? Words like “Babri” and “demolished” ring in my ears. The sudden excitement confounds me, since the mosques are centuries old!! This scuffle has been going on for quite some time now, and Maulana Sher Muhammad, the imam (preacher) officiating at Tarikh-ul-Islam Mosque even proceeded to write articles about the issue in the Muslim bi-monthly newsletter “Milli Gazette”, which can be accessed here – Milligazette.com - Another 'Babri' in the making and Milligazette.com - Masjid Quwwatul Islam. Mr. Sher Muhammad claims to be supported by priests of nearby renowned Hindu temples such as Chattarpur who too do not want another bout of religious bickering and political exploitation. Several members of VHP have been arrested in association with this mischief and the police has been forced to resort to cordoning off the entire Qutb complex, a renowned World Heritage Site, as and when the situation demands.

It just might disappear behind the canopy!

What the VHP and its vitriolic band of followers do not grasp is that it is not the Tarikh Mosque that was built by demolishing Hindu temples, but the adjoining Quwwat Mosque!! Qutubuddin Aibak, the slave and army commander of Muhammad Ghuri (and later the first Muslim Sultan of India), fell 27 temples of Hindu and Jain denominations to construct his magnum Quwwat/Qutb Mosque. The same is also recounted in one of the inscriptions installed in the mosque walls since the time of Qutubuddin. The translation reads –

“This Jami Masjid (Quwwat Mosque) built in the months of the year 587 (hijri) by the Amir, the great, the glorious commander of the Army, Qutub-ud-daula wad-din, the amir-ul-umara Aibeg, the slave of the Sultan, may God strengthen his helpers! The materials of 27 idol temples, on each of which 2,000,000 Deliwal coins had been spent were used in (construction of) this mosque.”

No prayers are offered at the Quwwat mosque since it fell into disuse and apparent ruin during the reign of Sultan Alauddin Khilji (ruled 1296-1316 AD) following the shift of capital from nearby medieval fortress of Lal Kot to the newly built Siri Fort. Lal Kot was the first city of Delhi as we know it and its ruins are situated quite close to the Qutb Complex. The Tarikh mosque, the bone of confused, misguided contention where prayers are still offered and never ceased to be offered, came up much, much later – in fact, guessing from its dilapidated condition and lack of ornamentation, one might contend that it was in all probability commissioned by some late-Mughal (18-19th century) administrative official or court noble. It is worth noting that in late 18th century, Mehrauli (the first city of Delhi, the area where both the Qutb complex and Lal Kot, and several other structures of historic interest are located) made a resurgence as the favored abode and summer retreat of Mughal rulers and English East India Company colonialist officials. Several later Mughal rulers too are buried in Mehrauli and there also are a few small palaces, tombs, pleasure pavilions and settlements. There is no particular reason why prayers shouldn’t be offered at the Tarikh Mosque since it has been in use since its inception and is not a disputed property, unlike the controversial Quwwat Mosque.

Locked forever!!

Located behind the souvenir and sales department of Qutb complex, Tarikh mosque is the least visited structure in the enormous complex (there wasn't a single visitor, except a few devout coming to offer prayers, for the entire time I was roaming about the complex). It felt odd to be the only person clicking photographs of this dilapidated structure, though that is actually what I wish for when photographing monuments since people tend to walk in the frame and spoil the composition. A few men, possibly the caretakers and gardeners who tend the Mughal Serai-Garden sub-complex opposite (refer Pixelated Memories - Mughal Serai), sat gossiping in a shady corner. The mosque presents a picture of desolation and dilapidation against the ever-growing, picturesque trees that grow in its small courtyard. Hiding the mosque from the eyes of curious onlookers, these greens grow in abundance and would have offered their produce to visitors had they not been so rare. Even rarer are consideration and funds for the mosque's conservation. It survives in a rather sorry state, its three onion domes blackened with time, its exteriors cracking and the two minarets that stand at the ends of its facade appearing like they are going to fall apart. The wooden entrance door that faces the walkway leading to the more-distinguished structures within the complex remains perennially locked now, its hinges topped by what appears like earthen ware to me. An alternate entrance that faces the facade of the mosque, but is a detour from the designated pathways, is presently the entry point.

The three domes stand over the three arched entrances of the poor mosque. It is easy to imagine that once stucco medallions and floral/geometric designs must have covered these arches and the rest of the exteriors. Alas, none of it ever existed. All you see is the small-flower like ornamental pendant over the central arch, varied patterns around the arches and curves and contours underneath. Leave alone precious gems and precisely-carved inscriptions, not even marble or stone ever covered these rubble walls which are cracked from the brunt of the various storms the mosque might have seen. No wonder it is quite easy to ignore its mere existence!

The beauty is in the simplicity

The interiors, painted in funky, bright colors, are a different scene altogether!! While the walls alternate between pink and white, the mihrab (western wall of a mosque that indicates the direction of Mecca and is faced by the devout while offering prayers) is slightly orange-ish. The paintwork appears to be pretty thick – I cannot fathom who got the brilliant idea of coloring a time-worn mosque with such shades and what were the authorities doing when such a travesty was taking place?! There isn’t much to observe inside – the arched triple-chamber is highly symmetrical, but lacking in ornamentation of any form. A window opens up towards the Qutb complex, one can spot tourists heading towards the majestic Quwwat mosque. Sadly, they all missed out this delightful, little gem.

I don't know what to make of these colors!

Outside again, I contemplate the mosque's fate while sitting on a bench placed by ASI close to the publication counter. Even the benches have their back to the structure which has survived the furies of time and nature, only to be threatened by men hell-bent on felling it to serve their own purposes. Who is to be pitied more, I wonder.

If the world is God's, the colors too are..

Location: Qutb Complex, Mehrauli, New Delhi
Open: Sunrise to Sunset
Nearest Metro Station: Saket and Qutb Minar stations are equidistant.
How to reach: Taxis, buses and autos can be availed from different parts of the city. Avail a bus/auto from the metro station (approx. 2 km either).
Entrance fees: Indians: Rs 10; Foreigners: Rs 250; Free for children up to 15 years of age.
Photography charges: Nil
Video charges: Rs 25
Time required for sightseeing: 30 min
Facilities available: Wheelchair access, Audio guides.
Relevant Links -

1. Pixelated Memories - Mughal Serai
2. Pixelated Memories - Qutb Complex
3. Pixelated Memories - Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque

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Worth considering after reading this article – Doesn’t our country have enough problems already? Aren’t we already fighting against and killing our own countrymen for one reason or another? I take pride in being an atheist and while I chide Hindu fundamentalists for raking up such issues in the name of safeguarding Hindu interests, I also stand against the Muslim demands of allowing prayers and religious gatherings in mosques like Qila-i-Kuhna (Old Fort), Moti Masjid (Red Fort), Khair-ul-Manazil (Shergarh), Jamali-Kamali and Rajon ki Baoli (Mehrauli Archaeological Park both). Also I would advise Maulana Muhammad not to distort historical facts in his articles – the Quwwat Mosque was built by demolishing temples. Qutubddin’s inscription and the records of his chronicler Hasan Nizami note the same. What's the point of denying history or accusing ASI authorities of spreading malicious falsehoods when they state that idols were recovered in excavations at the complex or that the pillars were pillaged from destroyed temples when the proof is there for all to see? Shouldn’t we be making bonds and breaking taboos, rather than making barriers and breaking heritage buildings?